India Pros. Fall 2016.
Our 3 week adventure started in Delhi, India where we explored the crowded alleys of Old Delhi contrasting to the modern New Delhi roads. In Old Delhi, we visited the Jama Masjid mosque and sampled some delicious Indian food at Haldiram's. We also did a walking tour with Street Connections and Salaam Balak Trust and were led by our guide Lalit, a former street child, through the windy lanes of Old Delhi homes and bazaars, visited a spice market and hidden Jain temple, and ended at one of the Salaam Balak Trust's shelter homes for street kids. In New Delhi, we did some shopping at the Tibetan markets and ate at the Saravana Bhavan. We also visited the fascinating Gurudwara Bangla Sahib where we stayed a little longer to help make some roti for the thousands of free meals that are served at the gurudwara each day. We found the people at the gurudwara to be some of the friendliest and inviting people we met in India.
Next we took an early morning train to Dehradun to volunteer at Navdanya, an organic and biodiversity farm founded by Dr. Vandana Shiva that trains and supports local farmers. In our time there we helped with harvesting basil and ginger and the never ending task of weeding, learned about seed saving, milked a cow, played volleyball, an Indian board game called Carrom, and a crazy fun game that's a combination of hide and seek, tag, and clue called Murder, took early morning walks through the forest and surrounding village, and of course enjoyed eating all of the delicious organic Indian vegetarian foods. All the staff at Navdanaya are so great! From listening to Jeetpal singing while he works, to having fun with Pratim, to talking politics with Negiji, working with Sheela and Bindu, and just having fun with the other staff and all the other volunteers...we had a wonderful stay at Navdanya.
Before heading to the airport in Dehradun, we found out about the sudden withdrawal of all 500 and 1,000 Rupees notes from circulation which we first realized the effects of when we tried to pay our restaurant bill at the Dehradun airport with some hassle from the cashier who eventually accepted our bills. We had a layover in Delhi before flying to Jaipur. In the Delhi airport, none of the vendors were accepting the old Rupees and we struggled to find a restaurant that accepted credit cards just to buy water. Once in Jaipur, we began to understand the seriousness of the currency situation. However, we still headed out the next day as planned to take a short train ride to Pushkar for the annual Camel Fair even though we only had about 800 Rupees (a little more than US $10) in small, legitimate bills. We were still able to have an amazing time in Pushkar because of a kind and persistent employee at the Ajmer train station who took me to every train window and vendor until finally one allowed me to change out just one 500 Rupee note for smaller bills, some vendors still accepted the old notes if we ordered food or purchased goods in increments of 500 Rupees (therefore not needing any change), we paid by credit card wherever possible, our hostel had free transportation during our stay, most of the Camel Fair events are free, and because we found one ATM with money and a long line of others waiting to withdraw the daily limit of $2,000 Rupees (about US $30). There was so much to see at the festival from a dancing horse competitions, traditional local games, so many beautifully decorated camels, colorful parades, nightly music concerts, carnival rides, and the craziest motorcycle and car stunt show I've ever seen. We also took a short hike up to a sunset point with an incredible view of Pushkar and watched the sunrise from the roof of our hostel where we got trapped for a little while by a family of monkeys!
We took a train back to Jaipur where we found it even more difficult to get more cash from the thousands of empty ATMs in the city. But even still, we were able to enjoy the Pink City where we visited the Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantar, and City Palace and wandered the endless bazaars. We also got to drink my favorite lassi in India at the famous Lassiwala shop. The next day we explored the beautiful Amber Fort and spent an afternoon at the incredible Elefantastic elephant sanctuary. We got to interact with our elephants Moti and Kufi. Kufi was recently rescued from a carnival. We fed them lots of snacks, painted them in traditional Indian natural colors, gave them a bath, filled their trunks with lots of water, took a short ride on them, rubbed their trunks, and gave them lots of hugs. Interacting with these giant but gentle animals is such an amazing experience! We ended the day watching the sunset and having a few drinks at the Nahargarh Fort. With no taxis left and a long wait for Uber to arrive, we decided to walk down from the fort back to the city with a couple of our Indian friends from our hostel. It was magical to see the moon light shining on the fort and the switchback stone road as well as the view of the city.
From Jaipur, we took another train to Agra. We took a ride across the river to the Mehtab Bagh gardens to watch the sunset on the Taj Mahal. The next day we woke up before sunrise to start lining up at the entrance to the Taj Mahal. We stayed to wander the grounds, watch the sunrise, and admire the smallest details of this architectural gem. We also visited the Mother Teresa home where disabled children and adults are cared for. Before heading to the train station, we went to eat at the best food stand in Agra called Time2Eat - Mama Chicken that was crowded with all locals enjoying the tasty but cheap foods. We took our overnight train to Varanasi that was freezing cold with the night wind blowing through the sleeper class train. During the day, the weather returned to a comfortable temperature. The train was 3 hours behind schedule and thanks to the help of some friendly locals, we realized the train was also on an alternate route that was going to bypass the train station that we were supposed to get off at. Luckily they were headed to the same place we were so they helped us to find a local train that would take us to our final destination, Varanasi.
Even with all the delays, we made it in time to see the nightly Ganga Aarti ceremony. Varanasi is one of the most fascinating places in the world. From sharing the narrow, twisting alleys with cows, buffalo, goats, monkeys, and dogs to visiting the body burning cremation ghats to our sunrise boat ride on the Ganges river…there was never a dull moment. We did our best to spend every last Rupee we had before taking a direct flight from Varanasi to Bangkok, Thailand.
In Bangkok, we visited Wat Pho to see the giant reclining Buddha, took a boat tour at the Taling Chan floating market, shopped at the enormous Chatuchak Weekend market, sampled local fruits and foods at the Or Tor Kor food market, got US $6 Thai massages, and had drinks from the Cloud 47 rooftop bar. We headed to the airport to fly back to Honolulu, Hawaii.
Next we took an early morning train to Dehradun to volunteer at Navdanya, an organic and biodiversity farm founded by Dr. Vandana Shiva that trains and supports local farmers. In our time there we helped with harvesting basil and ginger and the never ending task of weeding, learned about seed saving, milked a cow, played volleyball, an Indian board game called Carrom, and a crazy fun game that's a combination of hide and seek, tag, and clue called Murder, took early morning walks through the forest and surrounding village, and of course enjoyed eating all of the delicious organic Indian vegetarian foods. All the staff at Navdanaya are so great! From listening to Jeetpal singing while he works, to having fun with Pratim, to talking politics with Negiji, working with Sheela and Bindu, and just having fun with the other staff and all the other volunteers...we had a wonderful stay at Navdanya.
Before heading to the airport in Dehradun, we found out about the sudden withdrawal of all 500 and 1,000 Rupees notes from circulation which we first realized the effects of when we tried to pay our restaurant bill at the Dehradun airport with some hassle from the cashier who eventually accepted our bills. We had a layover in Delhi before flying to Jaipur. In the Delhi airport, none of the vendors were accepting the old Rupees and we struggled to find a restaurant that accepted credit cards just to buy water. Once in Jaipur, we began to understand the seriousness of the currency situation. However, we still headed out the next day as planned to take a short train ride to Pushkar for the annual Camel Fair even though we only had about 800 Rupees (a little more than US $10) in small, legitimate bills. We were still able to have an amazing time in Pushkar because of a kind and persistent employee at the Ajmer train station who took me to every train window and vendor until finally one allowed me to change out just one 500 Rupee note for smaller bills, some vendors still accepted the old notes if we ordered food or purchased goods in increments of 500 Rupees (therefore not needing any change), we paid by credit card wherever possible, our hostel had free transportation during our stay, most of the Camel Fair events are free, and because we found one ATM with money and a long line of others waiting to withdraw the daily limit of $2,000 Rupees (about US $30). There was so much to see at the festival from a dancing horse competitions, traditional local games, so many beautifully decorated camels, colorful parades, nightly music concerts, carnival rides, and the craziest motorcycle and car stunt show I've ever seen. We also took a short hike up to a sunset point with an incredible view of Pushkar and watched the sunrise from the roof of our hostel where we got trapped for a little while by a family of monkeys!
We took a train back to Jaipur where we found it even more difficult to get more cash from the thousands of empty ATMs in the city. But even still, we were able to enjoy the Pink City where we visited the Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantar, and City Palace and wandered the endless bazaars. We also got to drink my favorite lassi in India at the famous Lassiwala shop. The next day we explored the beautiful Amber Fort and spent an afternoon at the incredible Elefantastic elephant sanctuary. We got to interact with our elephants Moti and Kufi. Kufi was recently rescued from a carnival. We fed them lots of snacks, painted them in traditional Indian natural colors, gave them a bath, filled their trunks with lots of water, took a short ride on them, rubbed their trunks, and gave them lots of hugs. Interacting with these giant but gentle animals is such an amazing experience! We ended the day watching the sunset and having a few drinks at the Nahargarh Fort. With no taxis left and a long wait for Uber to arrive, we decided to walk down from the fort back to the city with a couple of our Indian friends from our hostel. It was magical to see the moon light shining on the fort and the switchback stone road as well as the view of the city.
From Jaipur, we took another train to Agra. We took a ride across the river to the Mehtab Bagh gardens to watch the sunset on the Taj Mahal. The next day we woke up before sunrise to start lining up at the entrance to the Taj Mahal. We stayed to wander the grounds, watch the sunrise, and admire the smallest details of this architectural gem. We also visited the Mother Teresa home where disabled children and adults are cared for. Before heading to the train station, we went to eat at the best food stand in Agra called Time2Eat - Mama Chicken that was crowded with all locals enjoying the tasty but cheap foods. We took our overnight train to Varanasi that was freezing cold with the night wind blowing through the sleeper class train. During the day, the weather returned to a comfortable temperature. The train was 3 hours behind schedule and thanks to the help of some friendly locals, we realized the train was also on an alternate route that was going to bypass the train station that we were supposed to get off at. Luckily they were headed to the same place we were so they helped us to find a local train that would take us to our final destination, Varanasi.
Even with all the delays, we made it in time to see the nightly Ganga Aarti ceremony. Varanasi is one of the most fascinating places in the world. From sharing the narrow, twisting alleys with cows, buffalo, goats, monkeys, and dogs to visiting the body burning cremation ghats to our sunrise boat ride on the Ganges river…there was never a dull moment. We did our best to spend every last Rupee we had before taking a direct flight from Varanasi to Bangkok, Thailand.
In Bangkok, we visited Wat Pho to see the giant reclining Buddha, took a boat tour at the Taling Chan floating market, shopped at the enormous Chatuchak Weekend market, sampled local fruits and foods at the Or Tor Kor food market, got US $6 Thai massages, and had drinks from the Cloud 47 rooftop bar. We headed to the airport to fly back to Honolulu, Hawaii.
FREE TRAVEL NOTES:
INDIA - General
-A tourist visa for India for stays less than 30 days can now be obtained online for a total cost of $62.10. The e-Visa can only be applied for 30 days prior to your arrival date and a minimum 4 days before you arrive. Processing times are between 1-3 days. The instructions say to print the e-Visa that is emailed back to you upon approval, however, the immigration officers did not seem to even look at the paper. Other visas can be obtained through Cox and Kings Global Services, however, apply for these visas far in advance as possible as the visa contractors have historically had many delays in processing the visa applications.
-Generally, there are ATMs that can be found pretty conveniently in most places in India. However, with the recent announcement of the recent withdrawal of the old 500 and 1,000 Rupees notes in November 2016, ATMs with cash became much more difficult to come by. However, with more passing of time, this should eventually return to normal.
-You can also trade US Dollars at money exchange counters in the airports but official money exchange counters can be harder to come by in some cities.
-With the recent retirement of the old 500 and 1,000 Rupees notes and the rush for the government to print new bills, there have been reports of inconsistencies in the printing of the new bills making new counterfeit bills likely and vendors more cautious in accepting bills. Make sure to be familiar with what the new bills look like and do not accept any of the old 500 and 1,000 Rupees notes.
-The government is pushing for more transactions to be paid by credit card in what was in many places a cash only society. More businesses may accept credit cards, however, if using credit cards, keep all of your receipts, make sure to check that the correct amounts are charged to your card, and that no other transactions are occurring.
-Restaurant prices may or may not include tax and a service charge. If a service charge is already included (not to be confused with service tax which is for the government), tipping is optional. For other places, 5-10% is appropriate.
-Train travel in India is one of the best ways to get around. There are many trains that can get you from city to city. However, before booking any tickets, keep in mind there may be multiple train stations in one city, there are different classes of travel, some more comfortable than others, some including meals, some trains with more stops, trains that can be traveling for 2 days before getting to your departure station (making delays more likely), etc. The Seat 61 website has great explanations of the various classes of trains, how to create an online account to purchase tickets from IRCTC, and where to buy tickets at the train station. Use the National Train Enquiry System to look up the schedule for your train so you know the stations you will be stopping at and for how long as well as you can look up the status of your train to see if your train is delayed. However, you should still get to the train station at least 45 minutes before the estimated arrival in case the train arrives early.
-Auto rickshaws and bicycle rickshaws are great ways for getting around but negotiating with drivers is always a process. When arriving at train stations and airports, find the prepaid taxi or rickshaw stands. Most stations in bigger cities will have a stand although drivers will approach you as soon as you arrive and try to tell you that it is closed and charge you a higher price. If you must negotiate with drivers, try to get an idea of how much the price should be by asking at your hostel. Realize that you will be paying a "tourist tax" with a slightly higher price than locals but it's good if you can at least negotiate the drivers' starting price closer to the locals price.
-The MAPS.ME app is very helpful for figuring out where you are...especially in the windy roads of old cities, how to get to public transportation stops, when to get off a train, and making sure taxi and rickshaw drivers are taking you to the right place.
-When traveling in India, you will get a lot of stares from locals. But understand that no offense is meant and that it is usually just curiosity. Giving a friendly smile to children or someone of the same gender (female to female or male to male) will go a long way. And you'll soon find that many Indians are extremely friendly and helpful. Be cautious as a male smiling at women or a female smiling at men as this may be interpreted in the wrong way.
Delhi
where to stay Zostel Delhi Hostel 5 Arakashan Road, Ram Nagar, Paharganj, walking distance from New Delhi metro station; +91 77 28897594; Rs. 499 for a 6 or 8 bed dorm. On a quieter street off the main road in Paharganj. AC, wifi, and good location.
things to do
-Walking Tour of Old Delhi with Street Connections and Salaam Balak Trust lasts for 3 hours and is guided by a former street child for Rs. 500. The tour takes you through narrow alleys and crumbling mansions in the old city, a spice market, a Jain temple, a stop for authentic chai, and a visit to one of the Salaam Balak Trust shelter homes.
-Jama Masjid Rs. 300 entrance and camera fee; open 8:00am to dusk everyday; walking distance from Chawri Bazaar metro station. India's largest mosque. Remove shoes to enter and dress conservatively. Allow for 30min here.
-Gurudwara Banghla Sahib free entrance; open 4:00am-9:00pm everyday; walking distance from Patel Chowk metro station. Wander through the grounds, pick up a free pamphlet to learn about the Sikh religion, and go to see the kitchen where they make thousands of free meals each day. If you have time, stay to help make some of the roti along side the friendly locals. Make sure to dress appropriately for the visit. If you do not have your own head wrap, there are free head wraps that you can borrow. You can leave your shoes at the shoe counter near the entrance. Allow for 1-2 hours here.
-Ghandi Smitri Museum free entrance; open 10:00am-5:00pm Tuesday-Sunday, closed 2nd Saturday of the month; 5 Tees Jan Marg, New Delhi, walking distance from Racecourse metro station. A museum displaying historic photos and items from Gandhi’s life. This
memorial is where Ghandi spent his last days and where he was shot dead. Allow at least 30min-1 hour here.
-Lodi Garden free entrance; open 6:00am-8:00pm everyday, near Khan Market or Jor Bagh metro station. A peaceful park and a favorite Delhi escape.
-Go shopping at the Main Bazaar in Paharganj for backpacker oriented goods. Old Delhi bazaars including Chandi Chowk, Kinari Bazaar, and Chawri Bazaar for clothing, trimmings, electronics, wedding cards, etc. Janpath and Tibetan Markets for the usual trinkets.
where to eat
-Karim's or Al Jawahar Karim's open 9:00am-midnight and Al Jawahar open 7:30am-midnight; near Jama Masjid Gate No. 1. Great for Mughlai foods including kebabs and mutton curries.
-Haldiram open 9am-11pm;1454/2, Near Sheeshganj Gurudwara, walking distance from Chandni Chowk metro station; +011 47685114. Clean air conditioned cafeteria to sample different Indian treats including idli, dosas, and raj kachori.
-Babu Ram Paranthe Wali open 9:00am-11:00pm; Gali Paranthe Wale, walking distance from Chandni Chowk metro station. Rs 50-65 for a paranthe.
-Saravana Bhavan open 8:00am-11:00pm; 15-P Block or 46 Janpath, Connaught Place, walking distance from Rajiv Chowk or Janpath metro station; +011 28844305, +011 23345577. Good for south Indian thalis and large dosas.
travel tips
-You can see a lot in one day but you need two or three days to really see a lot of the sites in both Old and New Delhi.
-The Airport Express line runs from 4:45am-11:30pm runs from Terminal 3 to the New Delhi train station in 40 minutes for Rs. 60. This line is not usually crowded. The other metro lines can take you to most places in the city. Tokens for individual rides are Rs. 8-39. Tourist cards for unlimited short rides for 1 or 3 days are Rs. 150 or 300. Smart cards can be recharged starting in increments of Rs. 200 and save you 10% than individual tokens. Try to avoid riding the metro during peak commuting time (9am-10am and 5pm-6pm) if you don't want to be crammed in like sardines.
-There is an electronic taxi queue machine at the airport that tells you what stall your taxi is waiting for you at. You'll pay Rs. 350-500 to New or Old Delhi.
-There are many train stations in Delhi city. New Delhi station (NDLS) is the most convenient for those staying in Parharganj. For other stations, look up the distance of the station to your hostel before booking your ticket.
-The New Delhi Tourist Reservation Bureau is the best place to book train tickets if you decide not to create an online IRCTC account (see General notes above). Make sure to take your passport and cash with you. Do not be deterred by people telling you the tourist office is closed or offering to show you where it is. Follow the instructions of how to get to the official office on the Seat 61 website.
Dehradun
things to do
-Volunteer on the Navdanya organic and biodiversity farm. Price of accommodations and all means for 2 months or more, dorms Rs.1000/day/person; more than 1 week and less than 2 months, double room, Rs.1500/day/person or single room, Rs.1700/day/person; less than 1 week single room, attached toilet and bathroom, Rs. 2700/day/person. If you are coming in a group, the eco huts are great rooms. Volunteers work 3-4 hours on the farm and also 1 hour of community cleaning each day except Sunday. Tasks include weeding, seed saving, harvesting, and planting. The planned group volunteering activities each day may end quickly if there are a lot of volunteers. But there are always things to do so just walk around the farm and offer to help out wherever you can. There is also a great library of resources to learn more about organic farming during your free time. If you are lucky, Negiji or other staff members may run lectures or demonstrations on various topics. Usually once a month Dr. Vandana Shiva visits the farm and takes time for a Q&A session with volunteers. During free time, explore the nearby forest and surrounding farms, wake up early to help milk the cow, play volleyball with the competitive staff members, or learn to play the Carrom Indian board game.
where to eat
-Punjab Restaurant 1 Patel Market, Clock Tower, Rajpur Road; open 11:00am-11:00pm; +0135 2652697. Great food and service.
-Kumar Sweet Shop R1, Rajpur Road; open 8:30am-8:30pm; +0135 2655757. Good selection of Indian sweets and delicious ras malai.
travel tips
-There is a prepaid taxi and auto rickshaw stand at the Dehradun train station. A taxi to Navdanya is Rs. 600-800.
-Get money at the ATMs in Dehradun town as there are no ATMs near Navdanya.
INDIA - General
-A tourist visa for India for stays less than 30 days can now be obtained online for a total cost of $62.10. The e-Visa can only be applied for 30 days prior to your arrival date and a minimum 4 days before you arrive. Processing times are between 1-3 days. The instructions say to print the e-Visa that is emailed back to you upon approval, however, the immigration officers did not seem to even look at the paper. Other visas can be obtained through Cox and Kings Global Services, however, apply for these visas far in advance as possible as the visa contractors have historically had many delays in processing the visa applications.
-Generally, there are ATMs that can be found pretty conveniently in most places in India. However, with the recent announcement of the recent withdrawal of the old 500 and 1,000 Rupees notes in November 2016, ATMs with cash became much more difficult to come by. However, with more passing of time, this should eventually return to normal.
-You can also trade US Dollars at money exchange counters in the airports but official money exchange counters can be harder to come by in some cities.
-With the recent retirement of the old 500 and 1,000 Rupees notes and the rush for the government to print new bills, there have been reports of inconsistencies in the printing of the new bills making new counterfeit bills likely and vendors more cautious in accepting bills. Make sure to be familiar with what the new bills look like and do not accept any of the old 500 and 1,000 Rupees notes.
-The government is pushing for more transactions to be paid by credit card in what was in many places a cash only society. More businesses may accept credit cards, however, if using credit cards, keep all of your receipts, make sure to check that the correct amounts are charged to your card, and that no other transactions are occurring.
-Restaurant prices may or may not include tax and a service charge. If a service charge is already included (not to be confused with service tax which is for the government), tipping is optional. For other places, 5-10% is appropriate.
-Train travel in India is one of the best ways to get around. There are many trains that can get you from city to city. However, before booking any tickets, keep in mind there may be multiple train stations in one city, there are different classes of travel, some more comfortable than others, some including meals, some trains with more stops, trains that can be traveling for 2 days before getting to your departure station (making delays more likely), etc. The Seat 61 website has great explanations of the various classes of trains, how to create an online account to purchase tickets from IRCTC, and where to buy tickets at the train station. Use the National Train Enquiry System to look up the schedule for your train so you know the stations you will be stopping at and for how long as well as you can look up the status of your train to see if your train is delayed. However, you should still get to the train station at least 45 minutes before the estimated arrival in case the train arrives early.
-Auto rickshaws and bicycle rickshaws are great ways for getting around but negotiating with drivers is always a process. When arriving at train stations and airports, find the prepaid taxi or rickshaw stands. Most stations in bigger cities will have a stand although drivers will approach you as soon as you arrive and try to tell you that it is closed and charge you a higher price. If you must negotiate with drivers, try to get an idea of how much the price should be by asking at your hostel. Realize that you will be paying a "tourist tax" with a slightly higher price than locals but it's good if you can at least negotiate the drivers' starting price closer to the locals price.
-The MAPS.ME app is very helpful for figuring out where you are...especially in the windy roads of old cities, how to get to public transportation stops, when to get off a train, and making sure taxi and rickshaw drivers are taking you to the right place.
-When traveling in India, you will get a lot of stares from locals. But understand that no offense is meant and that it is usually just curiosity. Giving a friendly smile to children or someone of the same gender (female to female or male to male) will go a long way. And you'll soon find that many Indians are extremely friendly and helpful. Be cautious as a male smiling at women or a female smiling at men as this may be interpreted in the wrong way.
Delhi
where to stay Zostel Delhi Hostel 5 Arakashan Road, Ram Nagar, Paharganj, walking distance from New Delhi metro station; +91 77 28897594; Rs. 499 for a 6 or 8 bed dorm. On a quieter street off the main road in Paharganj. AC, wifi, and good location.
things to do
-Walking Tour of Old Delhi with Street Connections and Salaam Balak Trust lasts for 3 hours and is guided by a former street child for Rs. 500. The tour takes you through narrow alleys and crumbling mansions in the old city, a spice market, a Jain temple, a stop for authentic chai, and a visit to one of the Salaam Balak Trust shelter homes.
-Jama Masjid Rs. 300 entrance and camera fee; open 8:00am to dusk everyday; walking distance from Chawri Bazaar metro station. India's largest mosque. Remove shoes to enter and dress conservatively. Allow for 30min here.
-Gurudwara Banghla Sahib free entrance; open 4:00am-9:00pm everyday; walking distance from Patel Chowk metro station. Wander through the grounds, pick up a free pamphlet to learn about the Sikh religion, and go to see the kitchen where they make thousands of free meals each day. If you have time, stay to help make some of the roti along side the friendly locals. Make sure to dress appropriately for the visit. If you do not have your own head wrap, there are free head wraps that you can borrow. You can leave your shoes at the shoe counter near the entrance. Allow for 1-2 hours here.
-Ghandi Smitri Museum free entrance; open 10:00am-5:00pm Tuesday-Sunday, closed 2nd Saturday of the month; 5 Tees Jan Marg, New Delhi, walking distance from Racecourse metro station. A museum displaying historic photos and items from Gandhi’s life. This
memorial is where Ghandi spent his last days and where he was shot dead. Allow at least 30min-1 hour here.
-Lodi Garden free entrance; open 6:00am-8:00pm everyday, near Khan Market or Jor Bagh metro station. A peaceful park and a favorite Delhi escape.
-Go shopping at the Main Bazaar in Paharganj for backpacker oriented goods. Old Delhi bazaars including Chandi Chowk, Kinari Bazaar, and Chawri Bazaar for clothing, trimmings, electronics, wedding cards, etc. Janpath and Tibetan Markets for the usual trinkets.
where to eat
-Karim's or Al Jawahar Karim's open 9:00am-midnight and Al Jawahar open 7:30am-midnight; near Jama Masjid Gate No. 1. Great for Mughlai foods including kebabs and mutton curries.
-Haldiram open 9am-11pm;1454/2, Near Sheeshganj Gurudwara, walking distance from Chandni Chowk metro station; +011 47685114. Clean air conditioned cafeteria to sample different Indian treats including idli, dosas, and raj kachori.
-Babu Ram Paranthe Wali open 9:00am-11:00pm; Gali Paranthe Wale, walking distance from Chandni Chowk metro station. Rs 50-65 for a paranthe.
-Saravana Bhavan open 8:00am-11:00pm; 15-P Block or 46 Janpath, Connaught Place, walking distance from Rajiv Chowk or Janpath metro station; +011 28844305, +011 23345577. Good for south Indian thalis and large dosas.
travel tips
-You can see a lot in one day but you need two or three days to really see a lot of the sites in both Old and New Delhi.
-The Airport Express line runs from 4:45am-11:30pm runs from Terminal 3 to the New Delhi train station in 40 minutes for Rs. 60. This line is not usually crowded. The other metro lines can take you to most places in the city. Tokens for individual rides are Rs. 8-39. Tourist cards for unlimited short rides for 1 or 3 days are Rs. 150 or 300. Smart cards can be recharged starting in increments of Rs. 200 and save you 10% than individual tokens. Try to avoid riding the metro during peak commuting time (9am-10am and 5pm-6pm) if you don't want to be crammed in like sardines.
-There is an electronic taxi queue machine at the airport that tells you what stall your taxi is waiting for you at. You'll pay Rs. 350-500 to New or Old Delhi.
-There are many train stations in Delhi city. New Delhi station (NDLS) is the most convenient for those staying in Parharganj. For other stations, look up the distance of the station to your hostel before booking your ticket.
-The New Delhi Tourist Reservation Bureau is the best place to book train tickets if you decide not to create an online IRCTC account (see General notes above). Make sure to take your passport and cash with you. Do not be deterred by people telling you the tourist office is closed or offering to show you where it is. Follow the instructions of how to get to the official office on the Seat 61 website.
Dehradun
things to do
-Volunteer on the Navdanya organic and biodiversity farm. Price of accommodations and all means for 2 months or more, dorms Rs.1000/day/person; more than 1 week and less than 2 months, double room, Rs.1500/day/person or single room, Rs.1700/day/person; less than 1 week single room, attached toilet and bathroom, Rs. 2700/day/person. If you are coming in a group, the eco huts are great rooms. Volunteers work 3-4 hours on the farm and also 1 hour of community cleaning each day except Sunday. Tasks include weeding, seed saving, harvesting, and planting. The planned group volunteering activities each day may end quickly if there are a lot of volunteers. But there are always things to do so just walk around the farm and offer to help out wherever you can. There is also a great library of resources to learn more about organic farming during your free time. If you are lucky, Negiji or other staff members may run lectures or demonstrations on various topics. Usually once a month Dr. Vandana Shiva visits the farm and takes time for a Q&A session with volunteers. During free time, explore the nearby forest and surrounding farms, wake up early to help milk the cow, play volleyball with the competitive staff members, or learn to play the Carrom Indian board game.
where to eat
-Punjab Restaurant 1 Patel Market, Clock Tower, Rajpur Road; open 11:00am-11:00pm; +0135 2652697. Great food and service.
-Kumar Sweet Shop R1, Rajpur Road; open 8:30am-8:30pm; +0135 2655757. Good selection of Indian sweets and delicious ras malai.
travel tips
-There is a prepaid taxi and auto rickshaw stand at the Dehradun train station. A taxi to Navdanya is Rs. 600-800.
-Get money at the ATMs in Dehradun town as there are no ATMs near Navdanya.
Pushkar
where to stay Zostel Pushkar Hostel Choti Basti, Panchkund Road; +91 742 6064868; Rs. 399-499 for 4 or 8 bed dorms for most of the year but it was ~ US $20 per night during the Camel Fair including free transportation. Nice hostel with AC, a pool, and multiple lounging areas as well as a restaurant.
things to do
-Camel Fair The fair lasts for 7 days with different events, competitions, and performances each day. Check the fair website for the scheduled events when deciding what days you want to go. Although there are lots of activities included in the program, there are many spontaneous events that we happened upon by luck just by wondering around. During the early morning, a walk around the camel grounds will allow you to see families starting their day but there will be hundreds of other tourists and photographers trying to capture (in some cases stage) locals. If you are taking photos of locals be respectful. They may ask for money for pictures and if you don't want to pay then you should think twice about taking a picture or invading their private moments. In the evening, there are music performances, carnival rides, stunt shows...we saw a crazy motorcycle and car stunt show for Rs. 40 which was more than worth the entry price.
-Hike to a sunset point. There are two sunset/sunset point hikes around Pushkar. One takes only 20 minutes, the other may take around 1 hour.
where to eat
-Honey and Spice Main Market Street, Laxmi Bazaar; +91 94132 47156; open 8:00am-5:00pm. If you need a break from Indian food, this is a great place for fresh salads, fruit and yogurt bowls, and hearty stews.
travel tips
-Pushkar is not a large city. Two days is enough to enjoy the city but a couple extra days would be nice if you want to just relax with the laid-back vibe of this town.
-From Jaipur, take a train to Ajmer train station. This is the closest long distance train station to Pushkar. From Ajmer train station, exit the station, cross the pedestrian overpass, and wait for the bus to Pushkar Rs. 12. There is a tourist information office inside Ajmer train station if you have any questions.
-Within Pushkar, you can walk to most places within the city center.
Jaipur
where to stay Zostel Jaipur Hostel 1st floor of ICICI Bank, opposite tourist police station, Chandi ki Taksal; +91 141 6565659; Rs. 499-599 for 4-8 bed dorm rooms. AC, Rs. 100 breakfast, multiple lounges, Rs. 100 self-service laundry, and great location near the best Pink City sites.
things to do
-Jantar Mantar Rs. 200 entrance fee or buy a composite ticket for Rs. 1,000 which is valid for most of the famous sites in Jaipur and is good for two days; open 9:00am-4:30pm; guide starting at Rs. 200 (highly recommended to get a guide for this site). This is a historic astronomical observatory. Allow for 1 hour here.
-Amber Fort Rs. 500 entrance fee, included in the composite ticket; open 8:00am-6:00pm; guide starting at Rs. 300. This is a magnificent fort with beautiful courtyards, gardens, and buildings. If you only want to see one palace in Jaipur, this is the one to see. Allow at least 2 hours here.
-Elefantastic Rs. 4,000 for the elephant experience that includes feeding and interacting with elephants, elephant ride, painting, bathing, lunch, and transport to and from Jaipur city. Elefantastic is not far from Amber Fort so you can request to get either picked up or dropped off from there and see the fort and the elephants in one day. There are many companies that may offer a tour of elephant villages but this company seems to take good care of the elephants. We did not see any abuse of the elephants or use of bullhooks or sticks.
-Nahargarh Fort Rs. 200 entrance fee, included in the composite ticket; open 10:00am-5:30pm. Great place to see the sunset and a view of the city. You can pay an extra Rs. 200 fee to enter Padao bar. A great place to enjoy a few drinks and snacks. Make sure that you arrange for transportation to take you there and back as it is not easy to get a taxi at the fort and/or you may be forced to pay an outrageous price with no other options to get back to the city.
-City Palace Rs. 500 entrance fee, not included in the composite ticket; open 9:30am-5:00pm; guide starting at Rs. 300. This is an impressive complex to explore. Allow for 1-2 hours here.
-Hawa Mahal Rs. 200 entrance fee, included in the composite ticket; open 9:00am-5:00pm. You can see the outside of this historic building for free from the street. However, if you already have the composite ticket, it's worth hiking up to the top balconies for great views of the city. Allow for 30 minutes here.
-Go shopping at the miles of bazaars inside the Pink City walls. But remember to bargain hard. You can get a cheap and quick henna tattoo from one of the vendors who set up shop on the sidewalks.
where to eat
-Peacock Restaurant Hotel Pearl Palace, 51, Hari Kishan Somani Marg; +0141 3319511; open 7:30am-11:00pm. This used to be a great place to get drinks with a nice rooftop setting. However, due to changes in the liquor zoning laws, alcohol is no longer served. It still is a great place for a wide range of food, non-alcoholic drinks, and desserts. There was live music by an incredibly talented Indian group when we were there last. You may want to make a reservation in advance.
-Mamu's Infusion 8th Floor, Mangalam Ambition Tower, D-46-B, Shubhash Marg, C Scheme; +91 141-2365111; open 11:00am-11:00pm. Request a table on the rooftop. Nice ambiance and excellent Indian food.
-Lassiwala MI Road, across from Niro's Restaurant, it's the one that is says shop 312 and is the first lassi shop on the left next to the alleyway; open 7:30am-until they sell out. Rs. 25 for a large lassi.
-Cafe Coffee Day is a coffee chain in many cities in India but there are two branches in or near Amber Fort which are a great place to get a cold drink and a break in AC when visiting the fort.
travel tips
-There are so many places to visit in Jaipur that you need at least 2 days to explore. Add a third day to do a day trip from Jaipur.
-Autorickshaw rides to/from Zostel Hostel and the train station is between Rs. 120-150. Short rides around town is Rs. 40-80. A one-way ride to Amber Fort from Jaipur city is around Rs. 150.
Agra
where to stay Bedweiser Backpackers Hostel MIG-57, Taj Nagri; +91 904 1239328; Rs. 449 for a 4 bed dorm. AC, ensuite bathroom, and good location close to Taj Mahal east gate.
things to do
-Mehtab Bagh Rs. 200 entrance fee; open dawn to dusk. Nice views of the Taj Mahal at sunset and great photos with the colorful gardens in the front of the Taj. No tripods allowed inside the park. You can avoid paying the fee and get a free view of the Taj Mahal by walking down the road to the west of the gardens until you get to the river. You will still not be allowed to use a tripod even outside of the garden.
-Taj Mahal Rs. 1,000 entrance fee; open dawn to dusk everyday except for Friday. Purchase tickets online to avoid the lines. Go early before the sunrises to start lining up to enter the Taj Mahal. There is a line for men and women for locals and foreigners. Do not take any backpacks, tripods, or food. Once the gates are open at sunrise, head straight to the back through the inner walls of the Taj Mahal and take a picture of the Taj Mahal from the small platform in front of the reflecting ponds before the picture is crowded with tourists. Then head to the mosque (red brick building) to the west of the mausoleum to take photos from the archway of the building with the sun rising over the Taj Mahal. Then just take your time wandering the rest of the beautiful grounds. Allow at least 2 hours here.
-Mother Teresa Home 8, Ajmer Road, Pratappura. You can take a short tour of the grounds and stay to play with the children. There are many disabled children that are cared for by the staff. You can sing songs or interact with the kids. Morning time or mid-afternoon is best as the children are usually napping between noon and 3:00pm.
where to eat
-Pinch of Spice 1076/2, Fatehabad Road, Tajganj; +0562 4045353; open 12:00pm-11:30pm. You can order delicious Indian food ala carte or go for the lunch time buffet.
-Time2Eat - Mama Chicken Main Market, Sadar Bazaar, Agra Cantt; +91 889 9199999; open1:00pm-11:00pm. This is the best place to eat in Agra. Delicious tandoori chicken, wraps, and other cheap eats.
travel tips
-There is not much to do in Agra besides seeing the Taj Mahal. You really just need at least one sunrise and sunset in Agra to enjoy seeing the Taj Mahal at both times. So arrive the day before some time before sunset and you can schedule a train to leave the following afternoon or night.
-There are two train stations in Agra. Agra Fort is the closer station and more convenient to get to. However, there are more trains that go through Agra Cantt which is about 20 minutes away.
-Short rides in Agra are ~Rs. 50. A ride from the prepaid taxi stand at the Agra Fort station to the Bedweiser Hostel is Rs. 130. A ride to Agra Cantt station from Bedweiser Hostel is Rs. 150.
where to stay Zostel Pushkar Hostel Choti Basti, Panchkund Road; +91 742 6064868; Rs. 399-499 for 4 or 8 bed dorms for most of the year but it was ~ US $20 per night during the Camel Fair including free transportation. Nice hostel with AC, a pool, and multiple lounging areas as well as a restaurant.
things to do
-Camel Fair The fair lasts for 7 days with different events, competitions, and performances each day. Check the fair website for the scheduled events when deciding what days you want to go. Although there are lots of activities included in the program, there are many spontaneous events that we happened upon by luck just by wondering around. During the early morning, a walk around the camel grounds will allow you to see families starting their day but there will be hundreds of other tourists and photographers trying to capture (in some cases stage) locals. If you are taking photos of locals be respectful. They may ask for money for pictures and if you don't want to pay then you should think twice about taking a picture or invading their private moments. In the evening, there are music performances, carnival rides, stunt shows...we saw a crazy motorcycle and car stunt show for Rs. 40 which was more than worth the entry price.
-Hike to a sunset point. There are two sunset/sunset point hikes around Pushkar. One takes only 20 minutes, the other may take around 1 hour.
where to eat
-Honey and Spice Main Market Street, Laxmi Bazaar; +91 94132 47156; open 8:00am-5:00pm. If you need a break from Indian food, this is a great place for fresh salads, fruit and yogurt bowls, and hearty stews.
travel tips
-Pushkar is not a large city. Two days is enough to enjoy the city but a couple extra days would be nice if you want to just relax with the laid-back vibe of this town.
-From Jaipur, take a train to Ajmer train station. This is the closest long distance train station to Pushkar. From Ajmer train station, exit the station, cross the pedestrian overpass, and wait for the bus to Pushkar Rs. 12. There is a tourist information office inside Ajmer train station if you have any questions.
-Within Pushkar, you can walk to most places within the city center.
Jaipur
where to stay Zostel Jaipur Hostel 1st floor of ICICI Bank, opposite tourist police station, Chandi ki Taksal; +91 141 6565659; Rs. 499-599 for 4-8 bed dorm rooms. AC, Rs. 100 breakfast, multiple lounges, Rs. 100 self-service laundry, and great location near the best Pink City sites.
things to do
-Jantar Mantar Rs. 200 entrance fee or buy a composite ticket for Rs. 1,000 which is valid for most of the famous sites in Jaipur and is good for two days; open 9:00am-4:30pm; guide starting at Rs. 200 (highly recommended to get a guide for this site). This is a historic astronomical observatory. Allow for 1 hour here.
-Amber Fort Rs. 500 entrance fee, included in the composite ticket; open 8:00am-6:00pm; guide starting at Rs. 300. This is a magnificent fort with beautiful courtyards, gardens, and buildings. If you only want to see one palace in Jaipur, this is the one to see. Allow at least 2 hours here.
-Elefantastic Rs. 4,000 for the elephant experience that includes feeding and interacting with elephants, elephant ride, painting, bathing, lunch, and transport to and from Jaipur city. Elefantastic is not far from Amber Fort so you can request to get either picked up or dropped off from there and see the fort and the elephants in one day. There are many companies that may offer a tour of elephant villages but this company seems to take good care of the elephants. We did not see any abuse of the elephants or use of bullhooks or sticks.
-Nahargarh Fort Rs. 200 entrance fee, included in the composite ticket; open 10:00am-5:30pm. Great place to see the sunset and a view of the city. You can pay an extra Rs. 200 fee to enter Padao bar. A great place to enjoy a few drinks and snacks. Make sure that you arrange for transportation to take you there and back as it is not easy to get a taxi at the fort and/or you may be forced to pay an outrageous price with no other options to get back to the city.
-City Palace Rs. 500 entrance fee, not included in the composite ticket; open 9:30am-5:00pm; guide starting at Rs. 300. This is an impressive complex to explore. Allow for 1-2 hours here.
-Hawa Mahal Rs. 200 entrance fee, included in the composite ticket; open 9:00am-5:00pm. You can see the outside of this historic building for free from the street. However, if you already have the composite ticket, it's worth hiking up to the top balconies for great views of the city. Allow for 30 minutes here.
-Go shopping at the miles of bazaars inside the Pink City walls. But remember to bargain hard. You can get a cheap and quick henna tattoo from one of the vendors who set up shop on the sidewalks.
where to eat
-Peacock Restaurant Hotel Pearl Palace, 51, Hari Kishan Somani Marg; +0141 3319511; open 7:30am-11:00pm. This used to be a great place to get drinks with a nice rooftop setting. However, due to changes in the liquor zoning laws, alcohol is no longer served. It still is a great place for a wide range of food, non-alcoholic drinks, and desserts. There was live music by an incredibly talented Indian group when we were there last. You may want to make a reservation in advance.
-Mamu's Infusion 8th Floor, Mangalam Ambition Tower, D-46-B, Shubhash Marg, C Scheme; +91 141-2365111; open 11:00am-11:00pm. Request a table on the rooftop. Nice ambiance and excellent Indian food.
-Lassiwala MI Road, across from Niro's Restaurant, it's the one that is says shop 312 and is the first lassi shop on the left next to the alleyway; open 7:30am-until they sell out. Rs. 25 for a large lassi.
-Cafe Coffee Day is a coffee chain in many cities in India but there are two branches in or near Amber Fort which are a great place to get a cold drink and a break in AC when visiting the fort.
travel tips
-There are so many places to visit in Jaipur that you need at least 2 days to explore. Add a third day to do a day trip from Jaipur.
-Autorickshaw rides to/from Zostel Hostel and the train station is between Rs. 120-150. Short rides around town is Rs. 40-80. A one-way ride to Amber Fort from Jaipur city is around Rs. 150.
Agra
where to stay Bedweiser Backpackers Hostel MIG-57, Taj Nagri; +91 904 1239328; Rs. 449 for a 4 bed dorm. AC, ensuite bathroom, and good location close to Taj Mahal east gate.
things to do
-Mehtab Bagh Rs. 200 entrance fee; open dawn to dusk. Nice views of the Taj Mahal at sunset and great photos with the colorful gardens in the front of the Taj. No tripods allowed inside the park. You can avoid paying the fee and get a free view of the Taj Mahal by walking down the road to the west of the gardens until you get to the river. You will still not be allowed to use a tripod even outside of the garden.
-Taj Mahal Rs. 1,000 entrance fee; open dawn to dusk everyday except for Friday. Purchase tickets online to avoid the lines. Go early before the sunrises to start lining up to enter the Taj Mahal. There is a line for men and women for locals and foreigners. Do not take any backpacks, tripods, or food. Once the gates are open at sunrise, head straight to the back through the inner walls of the Taj Mahal and take a picture of the Taj Mahal from the small platform in front of the reflecting ponds before the picture is crowded with tourists. Then head to the mosque (red brick building) to the west of the mausoleum to take photos from the archway of the building with the sun rising over the Taj Mahal. Then just take your time wandering the rest of the beautiful grounds. Allow at least 2 hours here.
-Mother Teresa Home 8, Ajmer Road, Pratappura. You can take a short tour of the grounds and stay to play with the children. There are many disabled children that are cared for by the staff. You can sing songs or interact with the kids. Morning time or mid-afternoon is best as the children are usually napping between noon and 3:00pm.
where to eat
-Pinch of Spice 1076/2, Fatehabad Road, Tajganj; +0562 4045353; open 12:00pm-11:30pm. You can order delicious Indian food ala carte or go for the lunch time buffet.
-Time2Eat - Mama Chicken Main Market, Sadar Bazaar, Agra Cantt; +91 889 9199999; open1:00pm-11:00pm. This is the best place to eat in Agra. Delicious tandoori chicken, wraps, and other cheap eats.
travel tips
-There is not much to do in Agra besides seeing the Taj Mahal. You really just need at least one sunrise and sunset in Agra to enjoy seeing the Taj Mahal at both times. So arrive the day before some time before sunset and you can schedule a train to leave the following afternoon or night.
-There are two train stations in Agra. Agra Fort is the closer station and more convenient to get to. However, there are more trains that go through Agra Cantt which is about 20 minutes away.
-Short rides in Agra are ~Rs. 50. A ride from the prepaid taxi stand at the Agra Fort station to the Bedweiser Hostel is Rs. 130. A ride to Agra Cantt station from Bedweiser Hostel is Rs. 150.
Varanasi
where to stay Stops Hostel Varanasi B-20/47, A-2, Vijaya Nagaram Colony; +91 542 2270611; Rs. 499-599 for 6 or 8 bed dorm. Good location in walking distance to the ghats.
things to do
-Ganga aarti ceremony happens nightly at sunset at Dashashwamedh Ghat and lasts for about 1 hour. Many tourists attend the ceremony but it is still mostly Indian pilgrims who attend this important river worship ceremony.
-Sunrise boat ride on the ganges river. A 1 hour boat ride can be Rs. 300-600 depending on the number of people and your bargaining skills. It's a great way to see the locals bathing, washing clothes, praying, or swimming in the ganges river. Make sure to agree where you are going to and from (e.g. up to Marnikanika Ghat to get a viewing of this famous burning ghat) and that the price is for all people in the group and not per person.
-After the sunrise boat ride, walk along the ganges river to get an up close view of the daily life on the river.
where to eat
-Mona Lisa Cafe D29/11 Devnath Pura Bangali Tola Lane, Pandey Ghat; +91 945 1557533; open 7:30am-10:30pm. Mix of western and Indian foods run by an Indian family.
-Brown Bread Bakery right across from Mona Lisa Cafe; +0542 2450472; open 7:00am-10:00pm. I didn't get to eat at the new location as I went to the old location before realizing the restaurant had moved. But if it is anything like the old location, the food and restaurant vibe is great with live music at 7:30pm.
-Blue Lassi 12/1, Kachauri Gali Chowk, Near Rajbandhu Sweet, Bhelupur; open 9:00am-9:00pm. Over 80 delicious flavored lassis.
travel tips
-You need at least one sunrise and sunset in Varanasi for a boat tour and to see the Ganga Aarti.
-There is a prepaid taxi and autorickshaw stand at the Varanasi train station. A taxi to the Stops Hostel cost Rs. 300.
-If you are staying near the river, you can walk to most places...which is far more interesting.
-We opted to take a direct flight from Varanasi to Bangkok on Thai Airways to avoid having to fly or take a train to Delhi or Calcutta first. A pre-booked taxi to the Varanasi Airport was Rs. 750.
THAILAND - General
-You do not need a visa to enter Thailand for purposes of tourism and you are granted a 30 day stay.
-Money is easy to exchange at currency exchange counters or obtained from ATMs that are everywhere in the cities. ATMs often give large 1,000 Baht bills. You can easily get change by breaking bills at the 7-11 or other convenience stores.
Bangkok
where to stay Bed Station Hostel 486/149-150 Soi Phetchaburi 16, near Ratchathewi BTS station; +66 2 019 5477; 450-600B for 4 to 8 bed dorms. Great bed setup with charging outlets, reading light, and curtains, AC, free breakfast, cheap self-service laundry, bar, multiple lounges, and excellent vibe.
things to do
-Wat Pho 100B entrance fee; Th Sanam Chai, walking distance from the Tien Pier; open 8:30am-6:30pm. See the giant reclining Buddha and walk around to see the largest collection of Buddha statues and images. You can even get a massage while there. And don't forget to redeem your free cold water that is included with your ticket. Dress appropriately. Allow 30min-1hour here.
-Grand Palace 500B entrance fee; walking distance from the Chang Pier; open 8:30am-3:30pm. See the Emerald Buddha and the rest of the beautiful grounds including the detailed Ramakian murals, enormous Yaksha statues, and golden chedis. Dress appropriately or you will have to stand in line to borrow a sarong or pants. Allow 1-2 hours here.
-Taling Chan Floating Market open weekends, best to go before 10:00am to avoid the crowds. Small floating market with a good selection of Thai foods. You can take a 1 hour boat tour through the nearby canals and to a small temple for 60B. Book from the tour counter in the middle of the market. You can also arrange private boat tours or 2 or 3 hour group tours. To get to the market, you can hire a long tail boat from one of the main docks on the Chao Phraya river such as Chang or Tien pier. Alternatively, you can take a taxi to the market.
-Chatuchak Weekend Market Near Mo Chit BTS station or Chatuchak MRT station; open weekends 9:00am-6:00pm, best to go at 9:00am before it gets really hot. This market sells everything including clothes, housewares, art, food, pets, trinkets, etc. You can easily spend all day here.
-Rooftop bar Cloud 47 47th floor United Center Bldg, Silom, walking distance from the Sala Daeng BTS station; open 5:00pm-1:00am. There are many rooftop bars in Bangkok but most have strict dress codes of dress shoes and slacks for guys and no flip flops or sandals for girls. This rooftop bar has no dress code but still has an amazing view. Drinks are expensive but worth it.
-Cheap massages. You can get 1 hour Thai massages for 180B and up depending on how nice the establishment is. But there are many 200B places that are good for the price. Great after a day of long walking.
where to eat
-Or Tor Kor near Chatuchak Weekend Market or Kamphaeng MRT station; open 6:00am-6:00pm. Clean and bright food market great for fresh fruits and delicious cooked foods. Be sure to try some mangosteen, rambutan, dragonfruit, or durian.
-Hom Duan 70/2 Soi Ekkamai, walking distance from Ekkamai BTS station; open Monday-Friday 9:00am-5:00pm. Delicious northern Thai food including Khao Soi curry noodle soup!
-There is amazing street food everywhere in Bangkok. Follow the locals and try something new. Street food near the Bed Station Hostel includes Petchaburi Soi 5 or around the corner on Phayathai Road. Just grab a plastic seat on the street and dig in.
travel tips
-At the BKK or DMK airports there are official taxi queues. Do not go with someone who approaches you in the airport. And even though you get a taxi from the official queue make sure to insist that they use the meter (some drivers may try to trick you into paying a higher fixed rate). You will have to pay for any toll charges along the way. From BKK, there is an Airport Rail Link that you can take for 45B from 6:00am-midnight that connects you to the BTS lines.
-You can get prepaid BTS cards to use instead of waiting in line and needing coins each time to get a token. There is an 80B fee to start a card. This card does not work with the MRT. The launching of a card that works for both MRT and BTS has been in the works for some time but has been delayed to 2017.
-BTS and MRT connects you to most of the tourist places in Bangkok except the Banglamphu area with the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. However, you can still avoid the traffic and overpriced tuk tuks by taking the Skytrain to the Saphan Taksin BTS station. Then walk to the Sathon Central Pier and catch the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Banglamphu. You will also get a view of Wat Arun on the way. Make sure to check that you are getting on the right boat and are heading in the right direction.
where to stay Stops Hostel Varanasi B-20/47, A-2, Vijaya Nagaram Colony; +91 542 2270611; Rs. 499-599 for 6 or 8 bed dorm. Good location in walking distance to the ghats.
things to do
-Ganga aarti ceremony happens nightly at sunset at Dashashwamedh Ghat and lasts for about 1 hour. Many tourists attend the ceremony but it is still mostly Indian pilgrims who attend this important river worship ceremony.
-Sunrise boat ride on the ganges river. A 1 hour boat ride can be Rs. 300-600 depending on the number of people and your bargaining skills. It's a great way to see the locals bathing, washing clothes, praying, or swimming in the ganges river. Make sure to agree where you are going to and from (e.g. up to Marnikanika Ghat to get a viewing of this famous burning ghat) and that the price is for all people in the group and not per person.
-After the sunrise boat ride, walk along the ganges river to get an up close view of the daily life on the river.
where to eat
-Mona Lisa Cafe D29/11 Devnath Pura Bangali Tola Lane, Pandey Ghat; +91 945 1557533; open 7:30am-10:30pm. Mix of western and Indian foods run by an Indian family.
-Brown Bread Bakery right across from Mona Lisa Cafe; +0542 2450472; open 7:00am-10:00pm. I didn't get to eat at the new location as I went to the old location before realizing the restaurant had moved. But if it is anything like the old location, the food and restaurant vibe is great with live music at 7:30pm.
-Blue Lassi 12/1, Kachauri Gali Chowk, Near Rajbandhu Sweet, Bhelupur; open 9:00am-9:00pm. Over 80 delicious flavored lassis.
travel tips
-You need at least one sunrise and sunset in Varanasi for a boat tour and to see the Ganga Aarti.
-There is a prepaid taxi and autorickshaw stand at the Varanasi train station. A taxi to the Stops Hostel cost Rs. 300.
-If you are staying near the river, you can walk to most places...which is far more interesting.
-We opted to take a direct flight from Varanasi to Bangkok on Thai Airways to avoid having to fly or take a train to Delhi or Calcutta first. A pre-booked taxi to the Varanasi Airport was Rs. 750.
THAILAND - General
-You do not need a visa to enter Thailand for purposes of tourism and you are granted a 30 day stay.
-Money is easy to exchange at currency exchange counters or obtained from ATMs that are everywhere in the cities. ATMs often give large 1,000 Baht bills. You can easily get change by breaking bills at the 7-11 or other convenience stores.
Bangkok
where to stay Bed Station Hostel 486/149-150 Soi Phetchaburi 16, near Ratchathewi BTS station; +66 2 019 5477; 450-600B for 4 to 8 bed dorms. Great bed setup with charging outlets, reading light, and curtains, AC, free breakfast, cheap self-service laundry, bar, multiple lounges, and excellent vibe.
things to do
-Wat Pho 100B entrance fee; Th Sanam Chai, walking distance from the Tien Pier; open 8:30am-6:30pm. See the giant reclining Buddha and walk around to see the largest collection of Buddha statues and images. You can even get a massage while there. And don't forget to redeem your free cold water that is included with your ticket. Dress appropriately. Allow 30min-1hour here.
-Grand Palace 500B entrance fee; walking distance from the Chang Pier; open 8:30am-3:30pm. See the Emerald Buddha and the rest of the beautiful grounds including the detailed Ramakian murals, enormous Yaksha statues, and golden chedis. Dress appropriately or you will have to stand in line to borrow a sarong or pants. Allow 1-2 hours here.
-Taling Chan Floating Market open weekends, best to go before 10:00am to avoid the crowds. Small floating market with a good selection of Thai foods. You can take a 1 hour boat tour through the nearby canals and to a small temple for 60B. Book from the tour counter in the middle of the market. You can also arrange private boat tours or 2 or 3 hour group tours. To get to the market, you can hire a long tail boat from one of the main docks on the Chao Phraya river such as Chang or Tien pier. Alternatively, you can take a taxi to the market.
-Chatuchak Weekend Market Near Mo Chit BTS station or Chatuchak MRT station; open weekends 9:00am-6:00pm, best to go at 9:00am before it gets really hot. This market sells everything including clothes, housewares, art, food, pets, trinkets, etc. You can easily spend all day here.
-Rooftop bar Cloud 47 47th floor United Center Bldg, Silom, walking distance from the Sala Daeng BTS station; open 5:00pm-1:00am. There are many rooftop bars in Bangkok but most have strict dress codes of dress shoes and slacks for guys and no flip flops or sandals for girls. This rooftop bar has no dress code but still has an amazing view. Drinks are expensive but worth it.
-Cheap massages. You can get 1 hour Thai massages for 180B and up depending on how nice the establishment is. But there are many 200B places that are good for the price. Great after a day of long walking.
where to eat
-Or Tor Kor near Chatuchak Weekend Market or Kamphaeng MRT station; open 6:00am-6:00pm. Clean and bright food market great for fresh fruits and delicious cooked foods. Be sure to try some mangosteen, rambutan, dragonfruit, or durian.
-Hom Duan 70/2 Soi Ekkamai, walking distance from Ekkamai BTS station; open Monday-Friday 9:00am-5:00pm. Delicious northern Thai food including Khao Soi curry noodle soup!
-There is amazing street food everywhere in Bangkok. Follow the locals and try something new. Street food near the Bed Station Hostel includes Petchaburi Soi 5 or around the corner on Phayathai Road. Just grab a plastic seat on the street and dig in.
travel tips
-At the BKK or DMK airports there are official taxi queues. Do not go with someone who approaches you in the airport. And even though you get a taxi from the official queue make sure to insist that they use the meter (some drivers may try to trick you into paying a higher fixed rate). You will have to pay for any toll charges along the way. From BKK, there is an Airport Rail Link that you can take for 45B from 6:00am-midnight that connects you to the BTS lines.
-You can get prepaid BTS cards to use instead of waiting in line and needing coins each time to get a token. There is an 80B fee to start a card. This card does not work with the MRT. The launching of a card that works for both MRT and BTS has been in the works for some time but has been delayed to 2017.
-BTS and MRT connects you to most of the tourist places in Bangkok except the Banglamphu area with the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. However, you can still avoid the traffic and overpriced tuk tuks by taking the Skytrain to the Saphan Taksin BTS station. Then walk to the Sathon Central Pier and catch the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Banglamphu. You will also get a view of Wat Arun on the way. Make sure to check that you are getting on the right boat and are heading in the right direction.