Costa Rica Pros. Winter 2015.
We spent 2 weeks traveling through Costa Rica from the Pacific coast to the Caribbean coast. We flew into San Jose airport and took a public bus to Montezuma that midway takes a 1 hour ferry from Puntarenas to save time. On our first day in Montezuma volunteering with ASVO, we helped with an exhumation of a turtle nest that was past its expected hatching date which resulted in the release of a few baby turtles. During our 5 days working with ASVO we worked our hatchery shifts (someone must be on shift 24 hours a day) and released so many adorable baby turtles...one night there were two different nests hatching at the same time! We warded off raccoon predators at night and helped with the exhumation of two more nests. On our last night at ASVO, we even got to see a mama turtle laying her eggs!!! Watching the eggs being laid, the turtles crawling out of the sand, and taking their first steps into the ocean was truly a miracle to see! Our volunteer time with ASVO also included helping with a beach and bus stop cleanup as well as helping out with chores at the ASVO volunteer house. However, there was still time for hiking up to the three Montezuma waterfalls (the third waterfall being short enough for some to brave jumping off from as well as a rope swing hanging from a tree), relaxing at the many beaches, going for a swim in the lagoon, napping in one of the many ASVO hammocks, and the long sunrise walk to the Chorro waterfall (that flows directly into the ocean). It was great getting to know all the staff at ASVO Montezuma, including Ricardo (who works so hard everyday), Evelyn (who is always smiling), and Blanca (who makes the best food). ASVO is not governmentally funded and relies entirely on volunteers and donations. Here is a video of the important work that they do at ASVO Montezuma.
From Montezuma beach, we took a 1 hour bumpy boat ride to Jaco in the rain. From Jaco, we took a shuttle for 2 hours to Manuel Antonio. The next day, we went to the Manuel Antonio National Park for a guided tour where we got to see sloths, monkeys, bats, birds, lizards, and raccoons before relaxing on the beautiful beaches inside the park.
Then we took an early shuttle to Monteverde. Once at Monteverde, we were ready for the 100% Aventura ziplining, superman ziplining, and the tarzan swing through and above the cloud forest. The next morning we went to the Monteverde Reserve for a guided tour where we saw many birds (including the many different types of hummingbirds and even the rare Quetzal), insects (including a super disguised stick bug), and spiders. Walking around the beautifully unique cloud forest is one of my favorite experiences. In the afternoon, we walked around the 8 hanging bridges at Selvatura Park for a different perspective of the cloud forest treetops. Then went on an optional tour of a night jungle walk where we saw a snake, frogs, a tarantula, sloth, and more.
From Monteverde, we took the bus-boat-bus to La Fortuna. The clouds covered the Arenal volcano and there was occasional downpouring of rain but that didn't stop us from taking a swim in the cold waters under the La Fortuna waterfall. The next morning started off gloomy but cleared up by the time we reached the Arenal Observatory Lodge, allowing us to take the postcard picture of Arenal volcano on a clear day. From the lodge we embarked on what ended up being a 7 hour hike up and down to the lagoon inside Cerro Chato. After the strenuous hike, we relaxed our muscles in the free natural hot springs. On our free day in La Fortuna, we did some optional activities including a morning canoe ride where we saw lots of monkeys and even a few crocodiles up close and an afternoon horseback ride at sunset.
At 5:45am the next day, we boarded the Exploradores Outdoors shuttle that midway stopped for a whitewater rafting adventure on the Rio Pacuare before taking us to the Carribbean town of Puerto Viejo. The rafting included class 3 and 4 rapids and passed by many waterfalls and scenic canyons. In Puerto Viejo, we rented bikes and enjoyed the easy ride to Jaguar Rescue Center. At the Jaguar Rescue Center, we saw and learned so many interesting facts about ocelots, toucans, sloths, red-eye frogs, caimens, owls, hawks, and monkeys. Julie even got to feed a wild hawk a live mouse. We next biked further south and relaxed at the Punta Uva beach. On Saturday we visited the bustling organic farmers' market for some fresh fruits and locally grown coffee and chocolates. We took a bus to Manzanillo and walked to several different beaches. We had lunch at a great cafe and decided to take an impromptu cooking class to learn to make delicious Caribbean food. It was a great way to end such an amazing two weeks in Costa Rica.
We had a leisure last morning before we took a public bus for the 6 hour trip back to San Jose and the 18 hour flights back to Honolulu, Hawaii. All in all Costa Rica is a truly amazing place with the most diverse landscapes and wildlife, exciting adventure tours, delicious foods and fresh fruit drinks, a strong commitment to the environment and conservation, and some of the most friendly, helpful, and honest people! The phrase, Pura Vida, often heard throughout Costa Rica really does perfectly capture the spirit and way of life of the Costa Rican people.
From Montezuma beach, we took a 1 hour bumpy boat ride to Jaco in the rain. From Jaco, we took a shuttle for 2 hours to Manuel Antonio. The next day, we went to the Manuel Antonio National Park for a guided tour where we got to see sloths, monkeys, bats, birds, lizards, and raccoons before relaxing on the beautiful beaches inside the park.
Then we took an early shuttle to Monteverde. Once at Monteverde, we were ready for the 100% Aventura ziplining, superman ziplining, and the tarzan swing through and above the cloud forest. The next morning we went to the Monteverde Reserve for a guided tour where we saw many birds (including the many different types of hummingbirds and even the rare Quetzal), insects (including a super disguised stick bug), and spiders. Walking around the beautifully unique cloud forest is one of my favorite experiences. In the afternoon, we walked around the 8 hanging bridges at Selvatura Park for a different perspective of the cloud forest treetops. Then went on an optional tour of a night jungle walk where we saw a snake, frogs, a tarantula, sloth, and more.
From Monteverde, we took the bus-boat-bus to La Fortuna. The clouds covered the Arenal volcano and there was occasional downpouring of rain but that didn't stop us from taking a swim in the cold waters under the La Fortuna waterfall. The next morning started off gloomy but cleared up by the time we reached the Arenal Observatory Lodge, allowing us to take the postcard picture of Arenal volcano on a clear day. From the lodge we embarked on what ended up being a 7 hour hike up and down to the lagoon inside Cerro Chato. After the strenuous hike, we relaxed our muscles in the free natural hot springs. On our free day in La Fortuna, we did some optional activities including a morning canoe ride where we saw lots of monkeys and even a few crocodiles up close and an afternoon horseback ride at sunset.
At 5:45am the next day, we boarded the Exploradores Outdoors shuttle that midway stopped for a whitewater rafting adventure on the Rio Pacuare before taking us to the Carribbean town of Puerto Viejo. The rafting included class 3 and 4 rapids and passed by many waterfalls and scenic canyons. In Puerto Viejo, we rented bikes and enjoyed the easy ride to Jaguar Rescue Center. At the Jaguar Rescue Center, we saw and learned so many interesting facts about ocelots, toucans, sloths, red-eye frogs, caimens, owls, hawks, and monkeys. Julie even got to feed a wild hawk a live mouse. We next biked further south and relaxed at the Punta Uva beach. On Saturday we visited the bustling organic farmers' market for some fresh fruits and locally grown coffee and chocolates. We took a bus to Manzanillo and walked to several different beaches. We had lunch at a great cafe and decided to take an impromptu cooking class to learn to make delicious Caribbean food. It was a great way to end such an amazing two weeks in Costa Rica.
We had a leisure last morning before we took a public bus for the 6 hour trip back to San Jose and the 18 hour flights back to Honolulu, Hawaii. All in all Costa Rica is a truly amazing place with the most diverse landscapes and wildlife, exciting adventure tours, delicious foods and fresh fruit drinks, a strong commitment to the environment and conservation, and some of the most friendly, helpful, and honest people! The phrase, Pura Vida, often heard throughout Costa Rica really does perfectly capture the spirit and way of life of the Costa Rican people.
FREE TRAVEL NOTES:
General
-The tap water is drinkable in Costa Rica except in a couple places. Bring a reusable water bottle to reduce the amount of plastic bottles you are adding to the trash each day and bring a filtered water bottle if you want to filter for a better taste.
-You can use US Dollars commonly throughout Costa Rica but be careful for the exchange rate they use. In some places, they may quote you a taxi ride for US $10 and accept 5,000 colones which is a slight discount but at some hotels they may charge you 550 colones for each US dollar you owe which makes it more expensive to pay in dollars. It's best to have both currencies. Most ATMs give you the option to withdraw dollars or colones but many do not actually dispense dollars outside of the bigger cities. Additionally, in some cities, the ATM withdrawal limit can be very low (e.g. 50,000 colones or US $100) which makes the ATM fees very expensive if your bank does not offer free international withdrawals.
-Restaurant prices may or may not already reflect the 13% tax and 10% tip that will be included in the final bill. Be sure to check what is included in the price when determining how much to tip.
Montezuma
things to do
-Volunteer with ASVO: From the center of Montezuma town, head towards the Bakery Cafe, walking another 50 feet past the cafe, +506 2222 3612; US $60 one-time subscription fee plus $35 a day at the volunteer house which includes accommodations and 3 meals a day; volunteer schedule varies for each person as volunteers are assigned hatchery shifts throughout the day and night (someone must be on shift 24 hours a day). Exhumations, beach cleanups, and patrols (depending on time of year) are scheduled throughout the week. You should bring you own mosquito net, sheet, pillow, and red light headlamp.
-Montezuma Waterfalls: Fall the road south from the center of town and turn right after the bridge near Hotel La Cascada. The hike to the first waterfall requires walking over slippery rocks and through water and the use of ropes to help you across narrow sections of the path. From the first waterfall (the biggest waterfall) there are two routes to the next waterfalls: the free way or the paid way. The paid way is easier but costs 1,000 colones or US $2. To get to this trail, retrace your steps on the trail to the first waterfall for a couple minutes and crossing over to the right bank (right bank when heading back down, the left bank when heading to the first waterfall) and using some ropes to get to the start of the trail. Follow this trail up the many steps to the entrance where there is usually someone there collecting money and then turn right down the trail shortly after the entrance or you can keep heading up the steps to a lookout point. From this way, you arrive at the top of the third waterfall from which you can either jump down to the swimming area below from one of two white painted jumping spots, climb down into the water from the rocks carefully on the right side of the waterfall, or scale the ropes down to the path to the left of the waterfall. From here you can see the top of the second waterfall. Now for the free and more difficult but fun way to get to the second and third waterfall...when facing the front of the first waterfall, turn around and head up the mountain behind you towards the water pipes above. Turn left just before the pipes and you will find a more easily identifiable trail. From here, there are a lot of places requiring the use of your hands and legs to get to the next waterfalls. You will arrive at the bottom of the third waterfall and the top of the second waterfall. The third waterfall is fun for jumping off of (only a few locals are brave enough to jump the first two waterfalls) and for the rope swing. Make sure to bring water on a hot day and snacks if you plan and hanging out for a while. Tevas or water sandals are recommended for this hike.
-Chorro Waterfall: Free; But a long 4 hour walk (roundtrip) north of town. Not as impressively big as the Montezuma waterfalls but this waterfall flows directly into the ocean and you will also pass many beaches along the way that change from white sand to blackish sand to shells to colorful pebbles. There are at least 5 or 6 times in which you will need to take a trail inland to avoid some very rocky stretches of the beach. You can hike to the top of the waterfall but it is not safe to swim below the waterfall. VERY IMPORTANT: Take lots of water, go at dawn if possible, and when it will be low tide. Wear comfortable shoes as it is a long walk. If you don't want to do the 4 hour walk, you can opt get to the waterfall by horseback. You can book this through Cabo Blanco Travelers (+506 2642 1125, flordeparaisobungalows@gmail.com) for US $40 (group rate).
-Piedra Colorada (a freshwater lagoon): Free; A twenty minute walk following the beaches north of town. It is easy to walk by this lagoon as it is a little higher up from the shorebreak but you will know you have reached it when you see water streaming from the left into the ocean and see a lot of little stone piles. The water here is much cooler than the ocean water which is refreshing on the many hot days in Montezuma or while on the walk back from the far Chorro waterfall.
-Beaches: Free; There are so many beautiful beaches within the vicinity of Montezuma from the beaches directly in front of the town to some of the more distant beaches like Playa Cocolito and Playa Grande (good for surfing).
-Surfing with Young Vision Surf School: US $45 for 2 hour lesson. Take surf lessons with Manuel...such a friendly and funny Tico!
-Yoga: Take yoga classes for US$12-14 at the various studios around town including Montezuma Yoga, Devaya Yoga, and Ylang Ylang Resort.
where to eat
Note: We primarily ate at the ASVO house so did not have much chance to try too many restaurants in Montezuma.
-Bakery Cafe +506 2642 0458; open 6am-10pm; Breakfast foods, coffee, fresh juices, and the occasional wild monkey, agouti, or coati roaming around in the mornings.
-Super Montezuma for cold drinks, snacks, ice cream, and fresh fruits.
travel tips
-From San Jose International Airport, we took the public bus for 6,500 colones from San Jose. The bus leaves at 6am or 2pm either from the Transportes Cobano bus station in central San Jose which is a 45 minute and US ~$30 or more taxi ride from the airport or from the side of the road bus stop at Puente de Villa Bonita which is only a less than 5 minute and US ~$5 taxi ride from the airport. The risk of the closer stop is that the bus will be full but from one personal experience and from what I have read online, this usually does not happen. The public bus goes to Puntarenas to take the 1 hour ferry to save time on the commute and stops in Cobano before reaching Montezuma where you need to change buses (as that bus continues on to Santa Teresa). The ferry is 810 colones per person and is not included in the price of either the private or public transport. The other option from San Jose to Montezuma is to take the more frequent buses to Puntarenas, take the ferry across, and find a bus to Montezuma (which may also change in Cobano) when the ferry docks at Playa Naranjo. Total commute time is 5-6 hours.
-Take out money at ATMs before heading to Montezuma. There is only one ATM in Montezuma with a 50,000 colones withdrawal limit and allows you to withdraw this amount only two times a day. Otherwise you need to head to Cobano (20 minutes away) for other ATMs.
-To get to Manuel Antonio, you can take a bus and ferry back through Puntarenas but you can save a lot of time by taking the speedboat directly from Montezuma beach to the beach near Jaco. The speedboat was US $35 (group rate) per person through Cabo Blanco (+506 2642 1125, flordeparaisobungalows@gmail.com) and includes transport from the Jaco beach into Jaco town. We were lucky enough to encounter a pod of dolphins which the captain was kind enough to slow down for us for (a break from the incredibly fast and bumpy ride). Your luggage is covered in plastic bags before the ride. Wear clothes that you don't mind getting wet from waves or possible rain.
-Once in Jaco, you can take the public bus to Quepos and then another bus to Manuel Antonio. Or the driver of the shuttle to Jaco town may offer to take you direct to Manuel Antonio for US $10 per person. If you would like to arrange a private shuttle, you can contact Gato (Jose) at +506 8558 3030 or Olbert at +506 8552 1171. We paid Olbert US $10 per person. The private shuttle ride is around 2 hours to Manuel Antonio.
Manuel Antonio
where to stay Hostel Vista Serena 150m north of Manuel Antonio School; +506 2777 55162; US $16 for a 4 bed dorm or US $12 for a 16 bed dorm and includes breakfast of toast and coffee/tea. Great views of sunset, many hammocks to relax in, community kitchen, and restaurant serving sandwiches and juices. 5 minute walk to bus stop and grocery stores.
things to do
-Manuel Antonio National Park: US $16 entrance fee, open 7am-4pm Tuesday-Sunday (closed Monday). US $15 (group rate) per person for a 3 hour guided tour. Contact Cacho at +506 8450 2772 or wilbercacho@gmail.com for a guided tour. After a tour, relax at Playa Manuel Antonio and Playa Espadilla Sur, the parks most idyllic beaches. You can also walk to two other beaches but these can be covered in high tides. There is also the Punta Catedral trail where you can stop at several lookout points along the way. There are showers, toilets, and spouts to refill water bottles but no place to buy food. Pack your own picnic but be aware that certain bags of chips may be confiscated at the entrance (depending on who checks your bag) but either way you should be careful when eating your lunch for raccoons, monkeys, or coati's that may try to steal your food. Also, be careful leaving your bags on the beach unattended or even next to someone taking a nap...not necessarily because of theft but because of scavenging animals that have learned how to go through your belongings in search of food. Although there are trash cans, you should carry out all food trash with you out of the park as the animals will also scavenge the trash cans. Eating plastic or paper wrappers or bags or partially eat human food is not safe for the animals.
-Rent kayaks, surf boards, SUP boards, or umbrellas and chairs or arrange parasailing rides from vendors along the Playa Espadilla.
where to eat
-Cafe Milagro across from the intersection of the road to Hotel Parador; +506 2777 0794; info@cafemilagro.com; open everyday 7am-10pm; Nice cafe/garden setting with western and Costa Rican foods. Live music 6 nights a week 7pm-9pm, Monday-Saturday; Happy Hour daily from 4-6pm.
-Emilio's Cafe near cafe Milagro, down the side street; +506 2777 6807; open 6:30am-9pm except Tuesday; Breakfast, sandwiches, and a great selection of desserts.
-Falafel Bar in front of Cafe Milagro; +506 2777 4135; open everyday 10:30am-9:00pm; Delicious falafels and fruit juices.
-Pizza Pata near Super Joseth and Super Pura Vida; +506 2777 0555; Great selections of pizzas, green pesto sauce is amazing, and they are BYOB.
-Backpackers Paradise Costa Linda near entrance to Manuel Antonio National Park; +506 2777 0304; Nice place for a reasonably priced fresh fruit juice and french fries snack after a hot day at the park.
-Super Joseth or Super Pura Vida not far from the Hostel Vista Serena. Generally open from 7am-10pm.
travel tips
-Take the local bus for 310 colones that runs between Quepos and Manuel Antonio village every 20-30 minutes in the day and less frequently at night. A private taxi from Manuel Antonio village to the hostel is 3,000 colones or more at night.
-There are no ATMs in the Manuel Antonio village. There are two ATMs near Cafe Milagro or others in Quepos.
-We took a shared ride shuttle with Grayline that departs Manuel Antonio at 7am for US $50 per person and arrives in Santa Elena around 12pm.
General
-The tap water is drinkable in Costa Rica except in a couple places. Bring a reusable water bottle to reduce the amount of plastic bottles you are adding to the trash each day and bring a filtered water bottle if you want to filter for a better taste.
-You can use US Dollars commonly throughout Costa Rica but be careful for the exchange rate they use. In some places, they may quote you a taxi ride for US $10 and accept 5,000 colones which is a slight discount but at some hotels they may charge you 550 colones for each US dollar you owe which makes it more expensive to pay in dollars. It's best to have both currencies. Most ATMs give you the option to withdraw dollars or colones but many do not actually dispense dollars outside of the bigger cities. Additionally, in some cities, the ATM withdrawal limit can be very low (e.g. 50,000 colones or US $100) which makes the ATM fees very expensive if your bank does not offer free international withdrawals.
-Restaurant prices may or may not already reflect the 13% tax and 10% tip that will be included in the final bill. Be sure to check what is included in the price when determining how much to tip.
Montezuma
things to do
-Volunteer with ASVO: From the center of Montezuma town, head towards the Bakery Cafe, walking another 50 feet past the cafe, +506 2222 3612; US $60 one-time subscription fee plus $35 a day at the volunteer house which includes accommodations and 3 meals a day; volunteer schedule varies for each person as volunteers are assigned hatchery shifts throughout the day and night (someone must be on shift 24 hours a day). Exhumations, beach cleanups, and patrols (depending on time of year) are scheduled throughout the week. You should bring you own mosquito net, sheet, pillow, and red light headlamp.
-Montezuma Waterfalls: Fall the road south from the center of town and turn right after the bridge near Hotel La Cascada. The hike to the first waterfall requires walking over slippery rocks and through water and the use of ropes to help you across narrow sections of the path. From the first waterfall (the biggest waterfall) there are two routes to the next waterfalls: the free way or the paid way. The paid way is easier but costs 1,000 colones or US $2. To get to this trail, retrace your steps on the trail to the first waterfall for a couple minutes and crossing over to the right bank (right bank when heading back down, the left bank when heading to the first waterfall) and using some ropes to get to the start of the trail. Follow this trail up the many steps to the entrance where there is usually someone there collecting money and then turn right down the trail shortly after the entrance or you can keep heading up the steps to a lookout point. From this way, you arrive at the top of the third waterfall from which you can either jump down to the swimming area below from one of two white painted jumping spots, climb down into the water from the rocks carefully on the right side of the waterfall, or scale the ropes down to the path to the left of the waterfall. From here you can see the top of the second waterfall. Now for the free and more difficult but fun way to get to the second and third waterfall...when facing the front of the first waterfall, turn around and head up the mountain behind you towards the water pipes above. Turn left just before the pipes and you will find a more easily identifiable trail. From here, there are a lot of places requiring the use of your hands and legs to get to the next waterfalls. You will arrive at the bottom of the third waterfall and the top of the second waterfall. The third waterfall is fun for jumping off of (only a few locals are brave enough to jump the first two waterfalls) and for the rope swing. Make sure to bring water on a hot day and snacks if you plan and hanging out for a while. Tevas or water sandals are recommended for this hike.
-Chorro Waterfall: Free; But a long 4 hour walk (roundtrip) north of town. Not as impressively big as the Montezuma waterfalls but this waterfall flows directly into the ocean and you will also pass many beaches along the way that change from white sand to blackish sand to shells to colorful pebbles. There are at least 5 or 6 times in which you will need to take a trail inland to avoid some very rocky stretches of the beach. You can hike to the top of the waterfall but it is not safe to swim below the waterfall. VERY IMPORTANT: Take lots of water, go at dawn if possible, and when it will be low tide. Wear comfortable shoes as it is a long walk. If you don't want to do the 4 hour walk, you can opt get to the waterfall by horseback. You can book this through Cabo Blanco Travelers (+506 2642 1125, flordeparaisobungalows@gmail.com) for US $40 (group rate).
-Piedra Colorada (a freshwater lagoon): Free; A twenty minute walk following the beaches north of town. It is easy to walk by this lagoon as it is a little higher up from the shorebreak but you will know you have reached it when you see water streaming from the left into the ocean and see a lot of little stone piles. The water here is much cooler than the ocean water which is refreshing on the many hot days in Montezuma or while on the walk back from the far Chorro waterfall.
-Beaches: Free; There are so many beautiful beaches within the vicinity of Montezuma from the beaches directly in front of the town to some of the more distant beaches like Playa Cocolito and Playa Grande (good for surfing).
-Surfing with Young Vision Surf School: US $45 for 2 hour lesson. Take surf lessons with Manuel...such a friendly and funny Tico!
-Yoga: Take yoga classes for US$12-14 at the various studios around town including Montezuma Yoga, Devaya Yoga, and Ylang Ylang Resort.
where to eat
Note: We primarily ate at the ASVO house so did not have much chance to try too many restaurants in Montezuma.
-Bakery Cafe +506 2642 0458; open 6am-10pm; Breakfast foods, coffee, fresh juices, and the occasional wild monkey, agouti, or coati roaming around in the mornings.
-Super Montezuma for cold drinks, snacks, ice cream, and fresh fruits.
travel tips
-From San Jose International Airport, we took the public bus for 6,500 colones from San Jose. The bus leaves at 6am or 2pm either from the Transportes Cobano bus station in central San Jose which is a 45 minute and US ~$30 or more taxi ride from the airport or from the side of the road bus stop at Puente de Villa Bonita which is only a less than 5 minute and US ~$5 taxi ride from the airport. The risk of the closer stop is that the bus will be full but from one personal experience and from what I have read online, this usually does not happen. The public bus goes to Puntarenas to take the 1 hour ferry to save time on the commute and stops in Cobano before reaching Montezuma where you need to change buses (as that bus continues on to Santa Teresa). The ferry is 810 colones per person and is not included in the price of either the private or public transport. The other option from San Jose to Montezuma is to take the more frequent buses to Puntarenas, take the ferry across, and find a bus to Montezuma (which may also change in Cobano) when the ferry docks at Playa Naranjo. Total commute time is 5-6 hours.
-Take out money at ATMs before heading to Montezuma. There is only one ATM in Montezuma with a 50,000 colones withdrawal limit and allows you to withdraw this amount only two times a day. Otherwise you need to head to Cobano (20 minutes away) for other ATMs.
-To get to Manuel Antonio, you can take a bus and ferry back through Puntarenas but you can save a lot of time by taking the speedboat directly from Montezuma beach to the beach near Jaco. The speedboat was US $35 (group rate) per person through Cabo Blanco (+506 2642 1125, flordeparaisobungalows@gmail.com) and includes transport from the Jaco beach into Jaco town. We were lucky enough to encounter a pod of dolphins which the captain was kind enough to slow down for us for (a break from the incredibly fast and bumpy ride). Your luggage is covered in plastic bags before the ride. Wear clothes that you don't mind getting wet from waves or possible rain.
-Once in Jaco, you can take the public bus to Quepos and then another bus to Manuel Antonio. Or the driver of the shuttle to Jaco town may offer to take you direct to Manuel Antonio for US $10 per person. If you would like to arrange a private shuttle, you can contact Gato (Jose) at +506 8558 3030 or Olbert at +506 8552 1171. We paid Olbert US $10 per person. The private shuttle ride is around 2 hours to Manuel Antonio.
Manuel Antonio
where to stay Hostel Vista Serena 150m north of Manuel Antonio School; +506 2777 55162; US $16 for a 4 bed dorm or US $12 for a 16 bed dorm and includes breakfast of toast and coffee/tea. Great views of sunset, many hammocks to relax in, community kitchen, and restaurant serving sandwiches and juices. 5 minute walk to bus stop and grocery stores.
things to do
-Manuel Antonio National Park: US $16 entrance fee, open 7am-4pm Tuesday-Sunday (closed Monday). US $15 (group rate) per person for a 3 hour guided tour. Contact Cacho at +506 8450 2772 or wilbercacho@gmail.com for a guided tour. After a tour, relax at Playa Manuel Antonio and Playa Espadilla Sur, the parks most idyllic beaches. You can also walk to two other beaches but these can be covered in high tides. There is also the Punta Catedral trail where you can stop at several lookout points along the way. There are showers, toilets, and spouts to refill water bottles but no place to buy food. Pack your own picnic but be aware that certain bags of chips may be confiscated at the entrance (depending on who checks your bag) but either way you should be careful when eating your lunch for raccoons, monkeys, or coati's that may try to steal your food. Also, be careful leaving your bags on the beach unattended or even next to someone taking a nap...not necessarily because of theft but because of scavenging animals that have learned how to go through your belongings in search of food. Although there are trash cans, you should carry out all food trash with you out of the park as the animals will also scavenge the trash cans. Eating plastic or paper wrappers or bags or partially eat human food is not safe for the animals.
-Rent kayaks, surf boards, SUP boards, or umbrellas and chairs or arrange parasailing rides from vendors along the Playa Espadilla.
where to eat
-Cafe Milagro across from the intersection of the road to Hotel Parador; +506 2777 0794; info@cafemilagro.com; open everyday 7am-10pm; Nice cafe/garden setting with western and Costa Rican foods. Live music 6 nights a week 7pm-9pm, Monday-Saturday; Happy Hour daily from 4-6pm.
-Emilio's Cafe near cafe Milagro, down the side street; +506 2777 6807; open 6:30am-9pm except Tuesday; Breakfast, sandwiches, and a great selection of desserts.
-Falafel Bar in front of Cafe Milagro; +506 2777 4135; open everyday 10:30am-9:00pm; Delicious falafels and fruit juices.
-Pizza Pata near Super Joseth and Super Pura Vida; +506 2777 0555; Great selections of pizzas, green pesto sauce is amazing, and they are BYOB.
-Backpackers Paradise Costa Linda near entrance to Manuel Antonio National Park; +506 2777 0304; Nice place for a reasonably priced fresh fruit juice and french fries snack after a hot day at the park.
-Super Joseth or Super Pura Vida not far from the Hostel Vista Serena. Generally open from 7am-10pm.
travel tips
-Take the local bus for 310 colones that runs between Quepos and Manuel Antonio village every 20-30 minutes in the day and less frequently at night. A private taxi from Manuel Antonio village to the hostel is 3,000 colones or more at night.
-There are no ATMs in the Manuel Antonio village. There are two ATMs near Cafe Milagro or others in Quepos.
-We took a shared ride shuttle with Grayline that departs Manuel Antonio at 7am for US $50 per person and arrives in Santa Elena around 12pm.
Monteverde and Santa Elena
where to stay Pension Santa Elena 50m from Banco Nacional; +506 2645 5051; US $70 for the Grand Suite for 4 or 5 people with two bunk beds, a double bed, and a loft bed. Includes free breakfast of fruit/yogurt/toast or two breakfast tacos and fruit and free coffee or tea all day. Great Taco Taco restaurant, community kitchen, and comfortable lounge area.
things to do
-100% Aventura: US $45 (group rate); a canopy tour with ziplining, superman ziplining, and the tarzan swing through and above the cloud forest. The longest zip line in latin America, excellent staff, and includes free transportation. Take a long sleeved shirt as it can get very cool in the late afternoon tour.
-Monteverde Reserve: US $20 entrance fee or US $10 student rate, open 7am-4pm. US $17 (group rate) per person for a 3 hour guided tour. Contact Adrian Mendez at +506 8822 3500 or adrianmendezc@hotmail.com or Samuel Arguedas at +506 8397 1027 or samguia@hotmail.com.
-Selvatura Park: US $30 for the unguided tour around the 8 hanging bridges for a different perspective of the cloud forest treetops and includes transportation.
-Kinkajou Night Walk: US $17 (group rate) per person when booked through Sleepers Sleep agency. Tours at 6pm or 8pm and includes free transportation. Wear comfortable shoes and bring a headlamp to keep your hands free to take photos.
where to eat
-Taco Taco outside of Pension Santa Elena; +506 2645 7900; open everyday 7am-8pm; best burritos.
-Sabor Tico at Plaza Monteverde; +506 2645-5827; open everyday 9am-9pm; great selection and reasonably priced Costa Rican and a great view of the sunset.
-Choco Cafe Don Juan in front of Plaza Monteverde; +506 2645 7444; open everyday 8am-7pm; great coffee drinks, desserts, and western foods.
-Raulito's Pollo across from the Treehouse Restaurant and Cafe; +506 8308 0810; 2,000 colones plate of rotisserie chicken.
-Treehouse Restaurant and Cafe near Super Compro; +506 2645 5751; open everyday 11am-10pm; overpriced, average Costa Rican food but in a unique setting with a 50 year old tree growing through the restaurant.
-Super Compro (centrally located) or Mega Super (at Plaza Monteverde) for self-catering. Generally open 7am-9pm.
travel tips
-Bus to Monteverde Reserva is 600 colones and 30 minutes; departs from in front of Banco Nacional at 6:15am, 7:30am, 9:30am, 1:30pm and 3pm; returns at 6:40am, 8:30am, 11am, 2pm and 4pm. A private taxi is 5,000-6,000 colones one-way.
-We took the bus-boat-bus to La Fortuna with RideCR for US $20 (group rate) per person. From Santa Elena, it is a 1 hour drive to the first bathroom stop, then another ~45 minutes to the boat (which has another bathroom stop but charges 300 colones), a hour smooth boat ride, and then another ~1 hour ride to La Fortuna town.
La Fortuna
where to stay Arenal Backpackers Hostel 350m west of central park towards volcano; +506 2479 7000; US $18 for a 8 bed dorm. Breakfast is not included and no kitchen use but has a nice pool, fun vibe, and restaurant and bar on property.
things to do
-La Fortuna Waterfall: US $12 entrance fee; open 8am-5pm. A ~15 minute walk down and ~30 minutes up the almost completely renovated staircases to the 70m tall waterfall. You can swim in front of the waterfall or walk down the other path to the more calm and less rocky swimming area. You can walk uphill to the waterfall entrance from town in 1-2 hours (depending on speed). Or take a private taxi for US $10 or 5,000 colones and then just enjoy the views walking downhill back to town.
-Cerro Chato: Hike this inactive volcano and down to the green lagoon inside the crater. There are three ways to do the Cerro Chato hike. 1) 5,000 colones or US $10 to start from the Arenal Observatory Lodge. This way takes 5-6 hours with time at the lagoon but the first and last 30 minutes are relatively flat. You walk through the lodges scenic pastures and trails to get to the start of the trail up Cerro Chato. On the property is also many other trails you can do including to a different waterfall (nice but not as impressive as the La Fortuna waterfall), through a hanging bridge, and also to the base of the Arenal volcano. On a clear day, you can get excellent views of Arenal volcano. There is a decent and reasonably priced restaurant on the property to at eat after the hike. The taxi ride to the lodge is US $30 or 15,000 colones. You can stop at the free hot springs on the way back into town. 2) US $12 to start from the entrance near the La Fortuna waterfall and return the same way. It is 4-5 hours including time down to the lagoon from this way. You can go to the La Fortuna waterfall for a swim after the hike and there is also a restaurant to eat at. The taxi ride to this entrance is US $10 or 5,000 colones. 3) You can start at either entrance and then walk down the other way. The best would be to start on the waterfall side and end up at the lodge and stop at the free hot springs on the way back. Whichever way you choose to go, take a pancho, plenty of water, some snacks, comfortable shoes, swim clothes, a sarong (for a towel), change of clothes (for after hike), and plastic bag (for wet/muddy clothes). It can be very hot or a bit chilly depending on the conditions that day and be wary of the scavenging coatis.
-Hot Springs: You can enjoy the free hot springs across from the Tabacon Spa. Just head down the concrete side road across from the Tabacon entrance, turn left under the concrete bridge, turn right when the bridge ends (be careful when crossing powerful waters), then climb over the short wall/gate on the right bank, and head up stream for better areas to relax in. The taxi ride to the hot springs from town is US $30 or 15,000 colones. Arrange your return taxi ride in advance as the taxi's you can arrange from Tabacon spa are pricey. Take water shoes if you have and if going at night, take a headlamp and candles. Or you can pay to go into any one of the numerous hot spring spas throughout La Fortuna starting at US $30 and go up to over US $100. They usually include one buffet meal.
-Canoa Aventura: US $50 for a half day canoe excursion including a snack and transport.
where to eat
-Restaurante Pizzeria La Parada on the south side of the central park; +506 2479 9119; open everyday 6am-12am; go for the cafeteria line on the left side of the restaurant for a plate of rice, beans, choice of main, choice of vegetable, and juice for 2,600 colones.
-Rainforest Cafe head south on the road east of the central park; +506 2479 7239; open everyday 7am-10pm; breakfast, casados, cakes.
-Soda La Hormiga near Mega Super; +506 2479 9247; open everyday 6am-4pm; breakfast plates starting at 1,500 colones and casados for 2,000 colones.
-La Choza de Laurel 300m west of the church; +506 2479 7063; open Monday-Saturday 5pm-10pm; festive uniforms, lots of seating, and good portions.
-Chocolate Fusion 350m west of the church; +506 2479 7330; open 7am-6pm; healthy sandwiches and wraps and delicious pies and cakes.
-Arenal Backpackers Resort restaurant and bar open 7am to 10pm or 11pm; pizza and beer combo for US $8, huge nachos, and decent casado and convenient for a relaxing night after the Cerro Chato hike.
-Mega Super (near San Jose bus stop) or Super Cristian #2 (near central park) for self-catering. Generally open 7am-9pm.
travel tips
-Red taxi line at the stop on the east side of the central park. Unofficial and cheaper taxis hang out by the south side of the park. Contact Tato at +506 8422 4534 or tatott21@yahoo.com (speaks excellent English) for an unofficial taxi ride for US $8 or 4,000 colones to waterfall. Larger tourist taxi vans hang out by the west side of the park. Contact Edilio Quesada at +506 8662 0432 orjmoc11@hotmail.com for a van taxi for US $10 or 5,000 colones to waterfall or US $40 or 20,000 colones to Arenal Observatory Lodge.
-The best way to get from La Fortuna to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is to go on a rafting shuttle with Exploradores Outdoors for US $90 (group rate) that includes shuttle pickup in La Fortuna at 5:30am that gets to the Exploradores Center around 8:30am, breakfast of fruit, yogurt, toast, eggs, gallo pinto, and coffee/juice, rafting on Rio Pacuare for 3 or 4 hours, lunch of either burrito or sandwich, fruit, chips and salsa, and juice, showers/bathrooms/change room/luggage storage, and shuttle to Puerto Viejo arriving around 5 or 6pm. Bring water shoes, change for tipping guides/drivers, water camera, rash guard, plastic bottle of water to have in raft, and credit card if you want to purchase photos/shirts/alcohol after rafting as they do not accept cash payments at the center. They also provide transport to San Jose. Although expensive, it is well worth the price as a shuttle from La Fortuna to Puerto Viejo alone costs US $62 and public bus that is cheaper would take just as many hours as you need to transfer in San Jose.
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
where to stay Sea Tower Hotel Avenida 67 and Calle 217, near Lidia's Place; +506 2756 8414; US $45 for doubles, US $60 for triples, and US$ 75 for 4-person apartment. Cute rooms, lovely owners, quieter location off from main street, no breakfast but has a community kitchen, and has nice hammocks in two lookout decks.
things to do
-Rent a Bike: US $5 or 2,500 colones for a full day from Tuanis; on the same road as Mega Super but closer to the main beachfront road; +506 8981 9145; open 8am-6pm.
-Jaguar Rescue Center: a 15-20 minute bike ride from Puerto Viejo town or a 3,000 colones taxi ride; +506 2750 0710 or jaguar.resc@gmail.com; open Monday-Saturday; visits are only by guided tours for 1.5 hours at 9:30am or 11:30am for US $20 or 10,500 colones. No reservations necessary for regular tours, just show up 10-15 minutes prior to the start of the tour. Private tours are US $75 at 2pm. If possible, getting Dexter, a long time local staff, is a real treat!
-Beaches: Free; There are so many beaches to choose from starting with Playa Negra (just north of town), Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita, or Punta Uva. But swimming conditions vary greatly so be wary of riptides and undertows.
-Manzanillo Refugio: Free; Walk south along the beach/trail from the bus stop in Manzanillo for 20 minutes to get to Miss May Point, a scenic lookout point. We explored some of the beaches before heading back about 5 minutes from Miss May Point to a more calm beach for swimming.
-Caribbean Food Cooking Class: US $35 for a 1.5 hour class with Andy at the Cool and Calm Cafe in Manzanillo (see below). Learn to cook the dish of your choice from the restaurant menu.
-Reggae/Reggaeton bars: Free entrance to bars around town including Lazy Mon, Salsa Brava, and Johnny's Place.
where to eat
-Organic Farmers' Market near Gecko Trails; open 6am-6pm Saturdays; fresh fruit, locally grown and made coffees and chocolates, locally made jewelry and other products.
-Bread and Chocolate south of Cafe Viejo; +506 2750 0723; open Wednesday-Sunday 6:30am-6:30pm; breakfast, sandwiches, coffee drinks, and baked goods.
-Lidia's Place at the corner of Avenida 67 and Calle 217; +506 2750 0598; open 9am-9pm except Monday; delicious Caribbean and home cooking flavors.
-Koki Beach beachfront location; +506 2750 0902; open Tuesday-Sunday 5pm-11pm; great location and good selection of foods.
-Soda Shekina across from Mega Super; +506 2750 0549; open Wednesday-Monday 11:30am-9pm; great Caribbean flavors.
-Dee Lite Gelateria in front of the bus stop; +506 8935 6547; open everyday 12pm-8:30pm; ice cream 1,500-2,500 depending on size.
-Selvin's Restaurant in Punta Uva; +506 2750 0664; open Thursday-Sunday 12pm-8pm; nice beachy vibe with good Caribbean foods including Rondon soup. Stop by here after a visit to the Jaguar Rescue Centre or on the way to Manzanillo.
-Cool and Calm Cafe 50m north from bus stop in Manzanillo; +506 2750 3151; open Wednesday-Sunday 11am-9pm; probably my favorite restaurant in all of Costa Rica for the delicious Caribbean chicken, mixed seafood plate, rondon (if it happens to be on special), giant fresh fruit juices, and mostly for chef Andy, Ursula, and the rest of the staff!
-Mega Super on the road heading to the school; open 8am-8pm.
travel tips
-Bus to Manzanillo 605 colones (30 minutes) leaves from main bus stop in Puerto Viejo at 6:45am, 7:45am, 9:45am, 11:45, etc and returns from Manzanillo at 10am, 12pm, 2pm, 4pm, and 6pm. Purchase tickets for bus to Manzanillo in the ticket office 10-15 minutes before the bus departs.
-Taxis hang out at the stand across from Nema's. Rides to Jaguar Rescue Centre are 3,000 colones and to Punta Uva are 5,000 colones. Call Natalia Tenorio at +506 8547 0323.
-Bus to San Jose 5,160 colones (5-6 hours) leaves from the Coca Cola stand in Puerto Viejo at 7:30am, 9am, 11am, 1pm, and 4pm. Purchase tickets in the ticket office a couple days before. The bus stops in Cauhita to pick up more passengers and then stops another 30 minutes later at a rest stop with eateries and restrooms for 15 minutes. The bus goes direct to San Jose from here and ends at the Autotransportes Mepe station. From here, you can take a taxi direct to the airport for US ~$25-30 or to downtown San Jose for US ~$5.
where to stay Pension Santa Elena 50m from Banco Nacional; +506 2645 5051; US $70 for the Grand Suite for 4 or 5 people with two bunk beds, a double bed, and a loft bed. Includes free breakfast of fruit/yogurt/toast or two breakfast tacos and fruit and free coffee or tea all day. Great Taco Taco restaurant, community kitchen, and comfortable lounge area.
things to do
-100% Aventura: US $45 (group rate); a canopy tour with ziplining, superman ziplining, and the tarzan swing through and above the cloud forest. The longest zip line in latin America, excellent staff, and includes free transportation. Take a long sleeved shirt as it can get very cool in the late afternoon tour.
-Monteverde Reserve: US $20 entrance fee or US $10 student rate, open 7am-4pm. US $17 (group rate) per person for a 3 hour guided tour. Contact Adrian Mendez at +506 8822 3500 or adrianmendezc@hotmail.com or Samuel Arguedas at +506 8397 1027 or samguia@hotmail.com.
-Selvatura Park: US $30 for the unguided tour around the 8 hanging bridges for a different perspective of the cloud forest treetops and includes transportation.
-Kinkajou Night Walk: US $17 (group rate) per person when booked through Sleepers Sleep agency. Tours at 6pm or 8pm and includes free transportation. Wear comfortable shoes and bring a headlamp to keep your hands free to take photos.
where to eat
-Taco Taco outside of Pension Santa Elena; +506 2645 7900; open everyday 7am-8pm; best burritos.
-Sabor Tico at Plaza Monteverde; +506 2645-5827; open everyday 9am-9pm; great selection and reasonably priced Costa Rican and a great view of the sunset.
-Choco Cafe Don Juan in front of Plaza Monteverde; +506 2645 7444; open everyday 8am-7pm; great coffee drinks, desserts, and western foods.
-Raulito's Pollo across from the Treehouse Restaurant and Cafe; +506 8308 0810; 2,000 colones plate of rotisserie chicken.
-Treehouse Restaurant and Cafe near Super Compro; +506 2645 5751; open everyday 11am-10pm; overpriced, average Costa Rican food but in a unique setting with a 50 year old tree growing through the restaurant.
-Super Compro (centrally located) or Mega Super (at Plaza Monteverde) for self-catering. Generally open 7am-9pm.
travel tips
-Bus to Monteverde Reserva is 600 colones and 30 minutes; departs from in front of Banco Nacional at 6:15am, 7:30am, 9:30am, 1:30pm and 3pm; returns at 6:40am, 8:30am, 11am, 2pm and 4pm. A private taxi is 5,000-6,000 colones one-way.
-We took the bus-boat-bus to La Fortuna with RideCR for US $20 (group rate) per person. From Santa Elena, it is a 1 hour drive to the first bathroom stop, then another ~45 minutes to the boat (which has another bathroom stop but charges 300 colones), a hour smooth boat ride, and then another ~1 hour ride to La Fortuna town.
La Fortuna
where to stay Arenal Backpackers Hostel 350m west of central park towards volcano; +506 2479 7000; US $18 for a 8 bed dorm. Breakfast is not included and no kitchen use but has a nice pool, fun vibe, and restaurant and bar on property.
things to do
-La Fortuna Waterfall: US $12 entrance fee; open 8am-5pm. A ~15 minute walk down and ~30 minutes up the almost completely renovated staircases to the 70m tall waterfall. You can swim in front of the waterfall or walk down the other path to the more calm and less rocky swimming area. You can walk uphill to the waterfall entrance from town in 1-2 hours (depending on speed). Or take a private taxi for US $10 or 5,000 colones and then just enjoy the views walking downhill back to town.
-Cerro Chato: Hike this inactive volcano and down to the green lagoon inside the crater. There are three ways to do the Cerro Chato hike. 1) 5,000 colones or US $10 to start from the Arenal Observatory Lodge. This way takes 5-6 hours with time at the lagoon but the first and last 30 minutes are relatively flat. You walk through the lodges scenic pastures and trails to get to the start of the trail up Cerro Chato. On the property is also many other trails you can do including to a different waterfall (nice but not as impressive as the La Fortuna waterfall), through a hanging bridge, and also to the base of the Arenal volcano. On a clear day, you can get excellent views of Arenal volcano. There is a decent and reasonably priced restaurant on the property to at eat after the hike. The taxi ride to the lodge is US $30 or 15,000 colones. You can stop at the free hot springs on the way back into town. 2) US $12 to start from the entrance near the La Fortuna waterfall and return the same way. It is 4-5 hours including time down to the lagoon from this way. You can go to the La Fortuna waterfall for a swim after the hike and there is also a restaurant to eat at. The taxi ride to this entrance is US $10 or 5,000 colones. 3) You can start at either entrance and then walk down the other way. The best would be to start on the waterfall side and end up at the lodge and stop at the free hot springs on the way back. Whichever way you choose to go, take a pancho, plenty of water, some snacks, comfortable shoes, swim clothes, a sarong (for a towel), change of clothes (for after hike), and plastic bag (for wet/muddy clothes). It can be very hot or a bit chilly depending on the conditions that day and be wary of the scavenging coatis.
-Hot Springs: You can enjoy the free hot springs across from the Tabacon Spa. Just head down the concrete side road across from the Tabacon entrance, turn left under the concrete bridge, turn right when the bridge ends (be careful when crossing powerful waters), then climb over the short wall/gate on the right bank, and head up stream for better areas to relax in. The taxi ride to the hot springs from town is US $30 or 15,000 colones. Arrange your return taxi ride in advance as the taxi's you can arrange from Tabacon spa are pricey. Take water shoes if you have and if going at night, take a headlamp and candles. Or you can pay to go into any one of the numerous hot spring spas throughout La Fortuna starting at US $30 and go up to over US $100. They usually include one buffet meal.
-Canoa Aventura: US $50 for a half day canoe excursion including a snack and transport.
where to eat
-Restaurante Pizzeria La Parada on the south side of the central park; +506 2479 9119; open everyday 6am-12am; go for the cafeteria line on the left side of the restaurant for a plate of rice, beans, choice of main, choice of vegetable, and juice for 2,600 colones.
-Rainforest Cafe head south on the road east of the central park; +506 2479 7239; open everyday 7am-10pm; breakfast, casados, cakes.
-Soda La Hormiga near Mega Super; +506 2479 9247; open everyday 6am-4pm; breakfast plates starting at 1,500 colones and casados for 2,000 colones.
-La Choza de Laurel 300m west of the church; +506 2479 7063; open Monday-Saturday 5pm-10pm; festive uniforms, lots of seating, and good portions.
-Chocolate Fusion 350m west of the church; +506 2479 7330; open 7am-6pm; healthy sandwiches and wraps and delicious pies and cakes.
-Arenal Backpackers Resort restaurant and bar open 7am to 10pm or 11pm; pizza and beer combo for US $8, huge nachos, and decent casado and convenient for a relaxing night after the Cerro Chato hike.
-Mega Super (near San Jose bus stop) or Super Cristian #2 (near central park) for self-catering. Generally open 7am-9pm.
travel tips
-Red taxi line at the stop on the east side of the central park. Unofficial and cheaper taxis hang out by the south side of the park. Contact Tato at +506 8422 4534 or tatott21@yahoo.com (speaks excellent English) for an unofficial taxi ride for US $8 or 4,000 colones to waterfall. Larger tourist taxi vans hang out by the west side of the park. Contact Edilio Quesada at +506 8662 0432 orjmoc11@hotmail.com for a van taxi for US $10 or 5,000 colones to waterfall or US $40 or 20,000 colones to Arenal Observatory Lodge.
-The best way to get from La Fortuna to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is to go on a rafting shuttle with Exploradores Outdoors for US $90 (group rate) that includes shuttle pickup in La Fortuna at 5:30am that gets to the Exploradores Center around 8:30am, breakfast of fruit, yogurt, toast, eggs, gallo pinto, and coffee/juice, rafting on Rio Pacuare for 3 or 4 hours, lunch of either burrito or sandwich, fruit, chips and salsa, and juice, showers/bathrooms/change room/luggage storage, and shuttle to Puerto Viejo arriving around 5 or 6pm. Bring water shoes, change for tipping guides/drivers, water camera, rash guard, plastic bottle of water to have in raft, and credit card if you want to purchase photos/shirts/alcohol after rafting as they do not accept cash payments at the center. They also provide transport to San Jose. Although expensive, it is well worth the price as a shuttle from La Fortuna to Puerto Viejo alone costs US $62 and public bus that is cheaper would take just as many hours as you need to transfer in San Jose.
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
where to stay Sea Tower Hotel Avenida 67 and Calle 217, near Lidia's Place; +506 2756 8414; US $45 for doubles, US $60 for triples, and US$ 75 for 4-person apartment. Cute rooms, lovely owners, quieter location off from main street, no breakfast but has a community kitchen, and has nice hammocks in two lookout decks.
things to do
-Rent a Bike: US $5 or 2,500 colones for a full day from Tuanis; on the same road as Mega Super but closer to the main beachfront road; +506 8981 9145; open 8am-6pm.
-Jaguar Rescue Center: a 15-20 minute bike ride from Puerto Viejo town or a 3,000 colones taxi ride; +506 2750 0710 or jaguar.resc@gmail.com; open Monday-Saturday; visits are only by guided tours for 1.5 hours at 9:30am or 11:30am for US $20 or 10,500 colones. No reservations necessary for regular tours, just show up 10-15 minutes prior to the start of the tour. Private tours are US $75 at 2pm. If possible, getting Dexter, a long time local staff, is a real treat!
-Beaches: Free; There are so many beaches to choose from starting with Playa Negra (just north of town), Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita, or Punta Uva. But swimming conditions vary greatly so be wary of riptides and undertows.
-Manzanillo Refugio: Free; Walk south along the beach/trail from the bus stop in Manzanillo for 20 minutes to get to Miss May Point, a scenic lookout point. We explored some of the beaches before heading back about 5 minutes from Miss May Point to a more calm beach for swimming.
-Caribbean Food Cooking Class: US $35 for a 1.5 hour class with Andy at the Cool and Calm Cafe in Manzanillo (see below). Learn to cook the dish of your choice from the restaurant menu.
-Reggae/Reggaeton bars: Free entrance to bars around town including Lazy Mon, Salsa Brava, and Johnny's Place.
where to eat
-Organic Farmers' Market near Gecko Trails; open 6am-6pm Saturdays; fresh fruit, locally grown and made coffees and chocolates, locally made jewelry and other products.
-Bread and Chocolate south of Cafe Viejo; +506 2750 0723; open Wednesday-Sunday 6:30am-6:30pm; breakfast, sandwiches, coffee drinks, and baked goods.
-Lidia's Place at the corner of Avenida 67 and Calle 217; +506 2750 0598; open 9am-9pm except Monday; delicious Caribbean and home cooking flavors.
-Koki Beach beachfront location; +506 2750 0902; open Tuesday-Sunday 5pm-11pm; great location and good selection of foods.
-Soda Shekina across from Mega Super; +506 2750 0549; open Wednesday-Monday 11:30am-9pm; great Caribbean flavors.
-Dee Lite Gelateria in front of the bus stop; +506 8935 6547; open everyday 12pm-8:30pm; ice cream 1,500-2,500 depending on size.
-Selvin's Restaurant in Punta Uva; +506 2750 0664; open Thursday-Sunday 12pm-8pm; nice beachy vibe with good Caribbean foods including Rondon soup. Stop by here after a visit to the Jaguar Rescue Centre or on the way to Manzanillo.
-Cool and Calm Cafe 50m north from bus stop in Manzanillo; +506 2750 3151; open Wednesday-Sunday 11am-9pm; probably my favorite restaurant in all of Costa Rica for the delicious Caribbean chicken, mixed seafood plate, rondon (if it happens to be on special), giant fresh fruit juices, and mostly for chef Andy, Ursula, and the rest of the staff!
-Mega Super on the road heading to the school; open 8am-8pm.
travel tips
-Bus to Manzanillo 605 colones (30 minutes) leaves from main bus stop in Puerto Viejo at 6:45am, 7:45am, 9:45am, 11:45, etc and returns from Manzanillo at 10am, 12pm, 2pm, 4pm, and 6pm. Purchase tickets for bus to Manzanillo in the ticket office 10-15 minutes before the bus departs.
-Taxis hang out at the stand across from Nema's. Rides to Jaguar Rescue Centre are 3,000 colones and to Punta Uva are 5,000 colones. Call Natalia Tenorio at +506 8547 0323.
-Bus to San Jose 5,160 colones (5-6 hours) leaves from the Coca Cola stand in Puerto Viejo at 7:30am, 9am, 11am, 1pm, and 4pm. Purchase tickets in the ticket office a couple days before. The bus stops in Cauhita to pick up more passengers and then stops another 30 minutes later at a rest stop with eateries and restrooms for 15 minutes. The bus goes direct to San Jose from here and ends at the Autotransportes Mepe station. From here, you can take a taxi direct to the airport for US ~$25-30 or to downtown San Jose for US ~$5.